Ed,
I waited to do this job for when I did my oil and filter change because the neutral switch is located in the transmission, oil filled part of the engine/transmission case.
I used my motorcycle jack to lift the rear only(one jack pad against the rear tire and the other landed just behind the oil filter area. I guess if you had to you could suffer through this with it sitting on the ground.
I laid down to view the work area (one reason I have carpet under my garage parking area for the bike.
First - the spade wire connector doesn't just slip off like I figured. It has a boot over the connector that holds a pinch type release spade connector which I discovered by accident while trying to get a good hold on it to pull harder(important information on this item).
I took the oil filter off to do the job and I would suggest this be done to make it easier as you have to get your fingers up there to feel the connector pinch device.
You have to use a deep well socket to get over the male spade connector (14mm or 9/16"). Going back in and working upside down, I had to put a rag in the deep well socket to hold the switch out to the end of the socket to expose the threaded end for starting it in the engine/trans case port.
The switch with new copper crush washer gets tightened to 10Nm and the oil filter gets 10Nm as well.
With the torque wrench having a dial reading(shown in previous picture), I had to use a mirror to see when I was at the proper torque.
You have to get up close to correctly orient the female pinch connector over the male spade of the switch but once it is on you can fell it's correct. I pinched and released it again then went right back on to confirm it was correct.
Over all was an easy job. This is one procedure they do not put in the factory manual as confirmed by the dealer parts counter guys. Maybe someone can see if it is in the other manuals. I would guess this is a $75.00 - $100 dollar labor job plus parts (neutral switch $25.00 crush washer $1.10) and lost oil at the dealer. If you have the tools you can do it. 10 Nm is not very much (a good twist at the wrist is about it) torque if you are doing it without the torque wrench. You don't want to elongate the threads in the case or on the switch.
The torque wrench shown in the picture wasn't cheap but I wanted one that was going to be very accurate for all the small engine bolts. It is a non-ratcheting 0-300 in. lb./ 0-35Nm range. CDI Torque Products, model 3002LDIN manufacture Consolidated Devices Inc., City of Industry, California 91748.
Maybe someone can put this in the tech vault or an edited down version of it .
Gary
