Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Right Side Losing Power

A while ago I was losing power from my right side Cylinder. First it started out intermittingly. Lose power then all of a sudden pow it would kick back in. Then it got worst. So I changed the Coils and replace them with Nology coils and Nology HotWires. I also replaced the plugs. Everything ran fine for over 1,000 miles or so. But yesterday the identical problem came back..

Any ideas or help?

03 BA 12,000 miles

Have you checked the pickup coil gap under the right side cover yet? I had my bike ('04) start running on one cylinder for no apparent reason and when I checked the gap was over 1.0 mm; reset to 0.8 mm and it's run fine since.

Full disclosure: I also bought a CDI from a wrecked Speedy at Pinwall Cycles eBay store thinking that was it. Old CDI has been back in just to check and it ran fine after resetting the gap but I'll have to admit I haven't done a long run with the old CDI in place. Still, for the cost of a gasket and a couple of dribbles of oil (you can do it on the sidestand without draining the oil) you can check the coil gap (given a used CDI is a minimum of $298 and a new one is 5~600 bucks).

sounds like it could be the cdi, expensive thing to just buy and change out tho

Frank

Definitely check your pickup coil gap. If that's good, next step is coils.

I had my Nology coils go out on me and Brent advised me to give them a call. Did so, shipped them my coils for testing and they replaced them.

Give Jeff a call at 1-800-665-6491.

what exactly is the CDI? What does it stand for? looked 'round for more info thru the search feature & not much... I kinda suspect similar issues from time to time.

I’m going today to buy a gasket and check the gap tomorrow (Saturday). A few questions

Will I need a gasket or can I still use the old one?
Do I need to drain the oil first?
What kind of feller gage (Brass or steel, thickness or gap)
Proper setting
And should I use lock tight when done


Thanks a lot for that help
It’s driving me crazy

You'll need the new gasket and a couple of dabs of RTV to hold the two grommets in place during reassembly. No loctite, no need to drain the oil, just drape a towel over the heaqder to catch the tablespoon that's going to dribble out. Any metric feeler gauge will work just fine, all you'll really need is the 0.8 mm leaf. You'll need a torx driver to set the gap, I think its a T-30 but I don't remember, it may be a size or two smaller. And, a razor blade to clean off the old gasket.

Loosen the 4 bolts that hold footrest mounting bracket so you can swing the brake pedal out of the way. 8 mm socket pulls the cover bolts. You'll find four tabs on the cover at 10,2,4 and 8 (clock face wise) to help you free the cover which will be on tight. A plastic hammer helps or the wooden handle of a big hammer to use as a pry bar. The alternator magnet is fairly strong so don't let it catch you unawares and snatch the cover out of your hands (trying to avoid a nasty scratch here). It's not all that strong but if you don't know that it can surprise you. The rest is straight forward...the trigger tabs are obvious, just spin the crank, measure the gap (check all of the tabs for insurance), set it to 0.8 mm and button it up.

Mine is under the clearance numbers but he bolts on the sensor are so tight I loose my nerve before they break loose ( not a nice place to strip one.)

I have to wait until I get a new gasket. Much to my dismay my local shop doesn’t carry one. The best they can do is 5 business days.

If I remover the cover what’s the chances I can do it without damage to the gasket?

Scheiße.. I'll have to wait then.

Old flat rater's trick.
Use this stuff or form-a-gasket #2 on the damaged portions of gasket.
Just be sure it's the non-hardening kind.

Never failed me yet.

(And yes, my cover gasket is repaired this way; and no, it doesn't leak.)

Permatex

I’m sorry I didn’t get back earlier. But it took a while until I finally got that gasket. But like you said you definitely need a new gasket. I not sure permatex would work and I wouldn’t try it. As for the clearance gap it was well over 1.0 mm and like you I reset to 0.8 mm. with a brand new T-30 torx bit. Man were those torx bolts on there. It took a lot of muscle and nervous tension praying not to strip them. But I reset the gap and install the new gastket. Which I might add working alone was a bit of a challenge. Buttoned everything up and took it on a 75 mile road test and so far so good. Sunday will be the big test I‘m heading to the White Rose M/C hill climb

http://www.biker.net/white%20rose/white_rose.htm

Thanks for the feed back
Bill

Just got back from the hill climb and my bike was purring like a lion

Thanks again

It's always great when it only costs a gasket and some wrench time, isn't it?

A little tip for those tight bolts. Tap them with a hammer once or twice. Put the torx on an extension and tap that with a hammer lightly. I did this on the torx for my valve adjustment and every one came out with ease.

EDIT: I do mean LIGHTLY too, don't forget the engine cases and head are aluminum and are easily damaged.

Bad news, while riding home tonight the right side lost power again. It went out for about 2 mile and all of a sudden “pow” it kicked back on.

Could it be a bad pickup coil or pickup coil wire?

Side note: ever since I adjust the pickup coil gap I ran it for well over 200 miles and it run like a perfect.

Any suggestions?

You'll just have to swap the coils and see if the problem moves with the coil. If not, it's most likely the ignitor. Save yourself some sticker shock when you get it sussed and check these guys out for a salvage replacement Pinwall Cycles Surplus Yard or it could be the right time to upgrade to Nology coils from one of our fine vendors...

I changed the Coils and replace them with Nology coils and Nology HotWires. I also replaced the plugs

This problem believe it or not has been with me for well over a year. First I thought it was fuel. Even went so far as buying a new flamed tank. Which I might add was a good excuse because I wanted one anyway. As for the Nology upgrade, I did that last October when I experienced the symptoms again and it ran fine for about 600 miles then I shut it down for the winter.

BTW You have been a great source of help. Would an 04 speedy igniter work on my 03 America?
Thanks again Bill

I purchased a used one from pinwall. Sitting here impatiently waiting on the its arrival

Just put on the 04 speedy igniter and its running great. (KNOCK WOOD).. Replacement sold through Pinwall Cycle http://stores.ebay.com/PinWall-Cycle-Par...6QQftidZ2QQtZkm was ½ the price and it only took 3 days UPS ($10 S&H)