Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Big Bore,liners or no?What best/

I seen I believe on D&D that they offer the Wiesco pistons but with a cylinder that is already bored but no liners.Cylinder is suppose to be nickel coated.Has anyone ran this yet? Does it hold up over time and does it run cooler than the steel liners? To me it should run cooler.Looks like the kit may possibly be worth the extra money.Any thoughts on this?

Hi Michael when you think the OEM engine has Nickel plated bores, I cannot see a problem. I think there is someone on here that has gone that way, where as the majority have gone for the Wiseco kit.

I did go that route with the nicad coated cylinders from D&D on my Speedy. It's even the high compression kit also with 12.1:1 ratio. I had the kit put on about 3,000 miles ago, and haven't looked back since. She still pulls extreamly hard, and I have brought the forks to the stops on more than one occation. The lightened flywheel helps also, with keeping everything spooling up quick. I did decide to go with the D&D kit for 3 reasons:
1: They have great service.
2: They are right down the road from me.
3: I've personally seen thier flat tracker bike with the same kit in it, and if it can stand that kind of abuse, then it is good enough for me.

I have not had the chance to ride a bike with the Wiseco kit on it, but with the compression ratio aside, I would guess it is about the same. As for the engine running cooler, depending on the outside temp, I'm usually running around 165 to 180 degrees. I know that is quite a range for the oil, but in Florida, it can get pretty hot. Again, I am not too sure what the fellas with the Wiseco kits are running (oil temp).

I too chose D&D's (Pensacola, FL) kit. They used to do the sleeve kit but decided the boring and re-nickeling was the better alternative. Their opinion is that the non sleeved version would far out last the steel sleeve version. They have already redone previous full Wiseco versions.

I went with the regular Wiseco pistons as opposed to the high compression version. I also tried the lighter flywheel and had them put the original back on. The lighter flywheel gives the bike more hp at higher rpms, but took some bottom end torque away. My primary goal was to get the most torque and power I could in the mid range rpms. Either D&D or the full Wiseco kit will make a huge difference in the bike performance. The bike now has all the power I could ever want. It's rides 2-up with a lot more oomph than solo before.

As stated above, they are my closest dealer (40 miles), they do an incredible job with their race bikes, they have their own dyno, and I really trust their service dept. The chief mechanic is the owner. BTW, his son, Rob McLendon, is the leading Thruxton Cup racer the last two years and is now racing a Triumph sponsored 675.

just to add another opinion i have the regular weisco kit with steel liners. i went this route because there are A LOT of poeple with it who have had no problems at all. it has shown to be a solid mod. you can install it yourself for about 1000 bucks so cost is not a big deal, plus in regards to rebuilds if you do it yourself, then you realize its not a bad job and changing the liners and rings every 50-60k its not that expensive and can be done in a weekend. but the D&D guys seem to be happy with there kits so i cant say anything bad as i have no expierence with them. but you should know there has been talk of how thin the stock liners are when they are bored out, i have heard they get very thin which can cause more expansion with heat which effects power/seal of rings. but again they guys with the kits report they are happy so its really your decision. just do as much research as you can and decide which rout you want to go. tons of info about this stuff on here, the rat site, and the delphi forums. goodluck

Frank

To add to my post and Frank's post. If I had the mechanical skills, I probably would go with the complete Wiseco kit and do it myself. BUT, I don't feel comfortable doing it. D&D including all labor, parts, and dyno runs, cost me right at $1250. They are my Triumph dealer and the nearest place there are people I trust to do the work, so I went with their complete kit. They don't do the sleeves anymore.

If you do it yourself, you still have to have your barrels bored and the sleeves put in by a machine shop. OR, you could pay to swap your barrels for a set from D&D already done with a complete kit.

Whichever route you go, I guarantee you will love the performance results. At my 5,000 miles per year, it would be a long time before either BB kit could be a problem. Whether it lasts 60,000 miles or 100,000 miles probably won't make any difference to the more mechanically inclined. Like the Nike ad, just do it!

Thanks for the comments.One day I'll take the plunge and do it.By then maybe some will have racked up quite a few miles on there BB engines.Time will tell what holds up.I could have used the BB this past weekend climbing the mountains.Thanks.