Got a wrench lent to me by OldRoadie today, and it worked perfectly! Used a Ford wrench for the top nut. I was a little skiddish with the whole bearing thing, but I was just REALLY careful. They are fine. Spent an hour or so sanding just to smooth it out a bit, I think it looks MUCH better. Got some primer on it too.
By the way, a dremel with a fine wire brush on it takes that powder coat off REAL fast and is great for getting the nooks and crannies.