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So, I swap around coils, and it turns out that it is only the number 3 position that is not firing.
The best way to check a coil is with a meger which checks for leakage in coils (transformers, motors, coils, etc)
Point of clarification, when you swapped the coils I assume you took #1 or #2 which were good and placed them in the 3 position which didn't change things? Did you take the #3 coil and try it in the #1 position? If so, that basically eliminates coil problems and coil high voltage wires. Check the primary side of the coils next. I don't have a diagram for your model but the primary power and ground for each coil (for the twin cylinder models) comes from the ignitor. Unplug the ignitor, find the power and ground leads to each coil and test with an ohmeter. This circuit should be very low resistance, probably only a few ohms. This verifys the primary side of the ignition system. If you find an open circuit or high resistance there's your problem.
My guess is that high voltage leakage through one of the 3 coils fed back through the primary side and fried your ignitor when your coil wires burnt. When you run an engine with a bad HT wire, that voltage has to go somewhere. Only a guess mind you. Too bad you can't borrow an ignitor and check.
Does anyone know if the ignitor can be checked with any electronic device or is it strictly hit and miss?
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