36mm socket for the front sprocket. A breaker bar. A torque wrench. Floor jack.
Remove the sprocket cover. Remove the right side's rear peg hanger. Remove the right silencer. Remove the chain guard. Flatten out the lockwasher on the front sprocket. Place the bike in gear and while applying the rear brake, 'break' the front sprocket nut loose. 'Break' all the rear chain ring nuts loose at this point. You can cut the chain off now. The same tool is used to cut and rivet the chain. But the tool is configured differently for each procedure. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear sprocket nuts and replace the chain ring with the new one. Torque to specs the rear sprocket nuts. Careful as the sprocket carrier will/may seperate from the hub. Remove the front sprocket. Replace the lock washer then the front sprocket. Place wheel back into place. Feed chain onto the two sprockets with the unjoined links at the bottom of the run, midway or so between the sprockets. Follow the instructions for the master link. You'll get a small tube of grease, 4 o-rings, a two pin link and a link plate. Grease up the two pin link place the o-rings on it then use this to join the chain from the left side to the right side of the bike. Grease the right side of the pins, place the o-rings in place, then place the link plate into place. configure the chain tool to press the plate on the pins. Careful as to the oreintation of the o-rings. Once the link plate is pressed on, reconfigure the chain tool to rivet the master link's pins. Rivet the master link pins, one at a time. Take out some of the chain slack. Put bike back on ground. Apply the rear brake and torque the front sprocket nut to specs. Flatten out two sides of the front sprocket's lock washer. Adjust the chain to specs. Lube it. Replace the sprocket cover. Apply high temp RTV to the header pipe/ silencer contact points. Place the silencer into place and secure with the clamp and the rear peg hanger. Replace the chain guard.
Time for a ride.
