Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Loose Chain

I was wondering how safe it is to ride with a loose chain. Mine is VERY loose right now. It sounds like it is rattling against the chain guard. I plan on doing both front and rear sprockets plus chain in the very near future. However, until I can scrounge up the cash I still want to ride. The rear axle is already adjusted all the way back. Anything I can do if this is a dangerous situation and I can't ride until I get the new stuff? Can I remove a link or two? Would I need a special tool to do this if I can? Also, when I do finally replace the sprockets and chain is there anything else that I should particularly look at?

It's perfectly fine to ride with a really loose chain, until it jumps off a sprocket, wraps itself around one end or the other, and either locks up your rear wheel or rips the heck outa the back end of your gearbox. Removing a couple of links might work as a temp fix but you're going to need a chain breaker and a new master link to do it. If it's gotten that loose you'll DEFINITLEY need new sprockets while you're at it - replacing just the chain'll mean the worn sprockets chew the new chain out in no time.

Would I ride it like that? No.

Matt

Not real wise to ride with a chain that's slapping around. Could wind up ruining your day big time.

Hey Airguy,
You might want to find my posts about the flying chain guard (Misc section) and my latest posts about chain wear (performance mods section) replacement.
From recent experience a new tire runs about $160, not including mounting (not including labor), new chain guard runs about $80 with bolts and tax. Fender dings will go unrepaired. New DID 525 ZVM X-Ring chain $141.00 (replaced it myself).
Why do I know this stuff? Because I failed to adjust the OEM chain often enough (even though DID 525 VM is an O-Ring Chain) it just didn't hold up well after it became way to loose and came off the rear sprocket at 65 MPH eating the chain gaurd which flew off chewing up the rear tire in a heartbeat of time. Sure I put the chain back on and adjusted it to normal tightness. Within weeks it was very sloppy loose again (no axle didn't move) so I adjusted it again. Within another two weeks it was extra sloppy loose. At which time I did some research on chain failure (see links in the two posts mentioned). Chain stretch and sluffing off oxidation (even though I cleaned/lubed often) were all tell tale signs of failure. Oh and by the way if you have an O-Ring chain on your bike and you don't see ANY O-rings, that is not a good sign either (that was also my problem). Bottom line keep the chain properly adjusted and lubed (yes you have to lube O and X Ring Chains) with a quality lube. I USE to use Maxima Chain Wax, but never again. I'm going with the #1 Rated Chain lube PJ1 from now on.

Steve
Learning from my bad mistakes, over and over again, so you don't have to.

Hi Steve,

I don't mean to be preachy here, but PJ1 was used by me for 19 thousand miles, and Chain wax I have used ever since. What I am led to believe is that the choice of generally accepted chain lubes is not the issue. WD40 is. I found PJ1-Black and PJ1-Blue to be great products. They just slung off a lot and the chain was real dirty all the time. I'm on my third chain kit at 42 miles. Took me a total of three weeks to put 5K on the third chain. And it still looks brand-new with chain wax. If you are dead set on using PJ1, use the PJ1 blue as it is specifically better for our chains.

bigsteve, Couldn't have said it better myself! I have been using PJ1 Blue since day one and I am getting 20K out of my chains. And there is virtually no wear on either sprocket. I do however make sure I measure the chain on regular intervals and replace it when I get 321mm of stretch. I made a GO/NO GO gauge from a coat hanger! Quick and easy!

Hi Deuce -please tell us how your gauge works! This sounds like a good tip to be aware of

Regards

Jan

OK, I have ordered the front and rear sprockets and chain from Brent. What, if any, specialty tools do I need to do this job. I know somebody mentioned a chain breaker. Do I also need a chain rivet or press tool? I have already sent some PM's out to Roundy77 and Mikesr to see if they have the chain tools. Is there anybody else in the Chicagoland area that I may borrow this stuff from. What do I need to know about relacing the front and rear sprocket? Do I need to know anything special about these? Your help is truly appreciated

36mm socket for the front sprocket. A breaker bar. A torque wrench. Floor jack.

Remove the sprocket cover. Remove the right side's rear peg hanger. Remove the right silencer. Remove the chain guard. Flatten out the lockwasher on the front sprocket. Place the bike in gear and while applying the rear brake, 'break' the front sprocket nut loose. 'Break' all the rear chain ring nuts loose at this point. You can cut the chain off now. The same tool is used to cut and rivet the chain. But the tool is configured differently for each procedure. Remove the rear wheel. Remove the rear sprocket nuts and replace the chain ring with the new one. Torque to specs the rear sprocket nuts. Careful as the sprocket carrier will/may seperate from the hub. Remove the front sprocket. Replace the lock washer then the front sprocket. Place wheel back into place. Feed chain onto the two sprockets with the unjoined links at the bottom of the run, midway or so between the sprockets. Follow the instructions for the master link. You'll get a small tube of grease, 4 o-rings, a two pin link and a link plate. Grease up the two pin link place the o-rings on it then use this to join the chain from the left side to the right side of the bike. Grease the right side of the pins, place the o-rings in place, then place the link plate into place. configure the chain tool to press the plate on the pins. Careful as to the oreintation of the o-rings. Once the link plate is pressed on, reconfigure the chain tool to rivet the master link's pins. Rivet the master link pins, one at a time. Take out some of the chain slack. Put bike back on ground. Apply the rear brake and torque the front sprocket nut to specs. Flatten out two sides of the front sprocket's lock washer. Adjust the chain to specs. Lube it. Replace the sprocket cover. Apply high temp RTV to the header pipe/ silencer contact points. Place the silencer into place and secure with the clamp and the rear peg hanger. Replace the chain guard.

Time for a ride.

In Dinqua speak, sounds like a 4 beer job!

i have 16,000 miles on my chain and plenty of adjustment left (18 " drive). i use belray super clean and wd 40 to clean it. i ride like hell, too.

cat bel ray spr cln

One thing to add to moe's directions... Make sure the new chain is the correct length before getting started (112 links). I dunno if the one Brent sells is already the right lenght or not so it's something to keep in mind.

Hi Cat, you may want to use Kerosene to clean your chain as opposed to WD-40, as I've heard it's one of the worst things to use for that purpose.

Here's one example.....

chain lube

Thanks Grump, interesting reading.

So, anybody out there have a chain breaker/riveting tool I can use?

I can't see spending $80-100 bucks for a tool I am only going to use every 4 years or more. I would be happy to pay for shipping both ways. I received my chain and sprockets today and am itching to get this done but don't want to start until I have this detail covered. Rightly 'perciate it if'n somebody can help me out.

Quote:

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Make sure the new chain is the correct length before getting started

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Excellent point!
Not a chain, but when Jaymo and I swapped his broken belt, the new one Ozzie sent was too short. Lots of wasted time and frustration could have been saved if either of us had half a brain and counted teeth/links before we installed it.
But noooo, we were in a hurry and thristy.
Count twice!
As my Dad used to say, "Measure twice, cut once."

Hey Pat - My dad used to say the same thing. Apparently we wern't listening. I know...we just ASSUMED Ozzie sent the correct belt length and you know what the word
assumed
is an acronym for, don't you? And we did! But the brew was awesome as usual at least. Yuk, yuk.

When you assume you make an a$$ out of U and me ?

When I was up in Canada this summer, went to Tony's cycle in Kingston, Ont. Bought and tried a product called WTK chain cleaner. Spray chain real good and wait about 10-15 minutes and then wash off with garden hose.Super product can not get in states. Maximus chain wax Got me 30,000 miles on Original chain. Works for me.

Just want to double check; It is a 36mm socket I need for the front sprocket change, correct?

Yes. 36mm it is.

OK, final double check on this one (I think). I am gettig ready to cut the new chain to length, a DID525VM2. I think it comes with 120 links. I believe Deuce stated I needed to make the chain length 112 links. Is this with or without the new masterlink? Rigtly 'perciate the assistance.

ahh-ight! Nevermind. It's 112 counting the masterlink. Now I just needs to get my hands on a chain riveter/smasher thingie.

Man was all that stuff dirty in there. Not anymore though.