Look on Ebay I see parts on there all the time,becareful buying a crank on there though. I have seen quite a few with the seal end mushroomed like I warned about in my earlier post. I haven't seen any with screws inside the jug opening either but it could be in the late 70s to early 80s models since the newest one I have ever worked on is 72. I got cyl with fitted pistons. The bore was fresh and the pistons never installed. I didn't get rings with it or the wrist pin clips but I only paid $150 for the set and they were 40 over. Just have to keep your eyes open for one that has slipped through the cracks and isn't getting bids. That bottom end you mentioned is one way to go with the amount of damage you report even if you need to put new rod bearings in it. If it has seen moisture you may need more than that though and mains are expensive. Plus if that bottom end nees cam bushings thats another minor can of worms. Requiers pulling the old ones out pressing the new ones in then reaming same with wrist pin bushings. Although there is a trick to those you can use a deep well socket large enough for the wrist pin bushing slide inside and a bolt with washers. Put the socket on one side of the rod and the new bushing on the other with the bolt through them and a washer on each end. This is best done with the rod heated. when you tighten the bolt it forces the old bushing out and the new one in. I heat them in an old pot full of motor oil on the stove so you heat them in oil to prevent un even heating or over heating and also prevents warpage.I heat pistons the same way so the wrist pin slides easily, always remember if doing that to have the one pin clip in so the pin doesn't slide right through. I also heat the cases to remove or install and bearings or races. It expands then and prvents shaving any aluminum off from the pressing process.
I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains. Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
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