Hi Loosend,
Pat, please feel free to use my observations if you like. You are the man!
Re Pat's direction's some observations in technicolour and words:
Tank console removal
Tank removal tip. Place a towel under rear of tank
so when you lift front of tank to remove the vent hose
you won't scratch anything up. A full tank is heavy!
Battery removal T-27 tool required.
Ground first!
Pat mentioned that the carb bowls should be drained. Do this before you drop the carbs! Less gas splashing around that way and the bowls should be drained regulary anyway! Draining the carb bowls.
Quote:
Underneath the rear fender, up where it connects to the airbox are (2) 8mm allens you need to locate and remove.
These are 6mm. Break them free with the tool Pat shows then use a handled allen driver to speed removal. Removing the chain guard helps with the right allen bolt too! For tool illustration. 
Quote:
I found it much easier in the long run to completely remove the retaining clamps for ease of removal and reinstallation later.
Once you free up the air box, the carbs will slip off of the airbox rubbers. You may not need to remove the o-spring on either airbox rubber. The front rubbers will still hold the carbs during the airbox rear shift, and you may not have to remove the manifold to carb rubber retaining clamps. 
Note the things I just mentioned. Last time I removed carbs I did not have to remove either the o-spring or either manifold rubber retaining clamps. The temps where rather low though!
The next pic showing air box ready for the backward shift 
Notice the Starter Solenoid has been detached and the carb temp sensor too. The wire harness cover, the air breather, the faux air covers, the allen head bolts, all have been removed.
Quote:
Remove the breather hose and throttle position electrical connector
once the carbs are free of the airbox and front rubbers. Much easier to do. Another photo of the throttle position electrical connector 
Well there you have it. Moe's addendum to the pioneering work or Pat Whitbeck.
