Well, I strapped the lever back last nite with a length of velcro. This morning it didn't seem any different. The brakes do work, so I rode to work today. When I got home, I pulled the caliper and let it dangle for a bit, tapping it here and there with my plastic mallet to free up any errant bubbles. I then used the mityvac to bleed the system. I did this slowly, over the course of an hour or so, giving the system a chance to collect more bubbles. When I was satisfied the line was air free, I remounted the caliper. No difference. So I dismounted the caliper again and tried the paint stick between the pads idea, which is prescribed in the Haynes manual too. (they just say to use a piece of thick metal stock) With the caliper dangling yet again, I bled the brake, tapping it with the mallet and turning it to try to chase out any bubbles. I got the fluid running totally clear.
So I went to put the caliper back on and discovered that my paint stick was a bit thinner than my new EBC rotor! So I pulled the pads and pressed the pistons back in, and reassembled everything again.
Brakes were a little stiffer, so I bled them again with the caliper on the bike. Came up better, but not what I would have expected from a new rotor, pads and now a completely flushed hydraulic system.
I think I will strap the lever back again overnight to see what happens, if anything and try another on the bike bleed again tomorrow.
If I try the 'paint stick' thing again, I'm gonna make my own on my table saw with a piece of maple, so its a little thicker and won't compress like a piece of pine.
I appreciate the input from you all!
Ted
