Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Brake Bleeding Help Needed !!!!!

Worn pads will make the lever have more travel but will still be firm.

Don't forget, leaving the brake fluid open to the atmosphere will allow moisture to contaminate the fluid. Brake fluid absorbs water especially if it is open to atmosphere. It will even absorb water through the plastic container it is stored in but at a much slower rate (purchase fresh stuff!). In extreme conditions, water in the brake fluid lowers it's boiling point which could cause gas to be formed in the fluid and mushy brakes.

Yes, that's why you only leave the reservoir cover off as long as you need to and no longer.

So, put on braided lines today. Piece of cake. Fronts are relatively firm, need to bleed more I think. Have NO back brakes whatsoever. Do I open the bleeder, depress the brake pedal all night, or do I leave the bleeder closed? same question for the front too.

Didnt work. Should I just buy a brake bleeder?

FYI. This was a resurrected pre tbird post.

take some teflon tape and wrap it around the exposed threads.
pressing pedal, open, close, release pedal, repeat.
Sometimes lowering the caliper gets the air out. Then a minor old fashioned letting finishes it off.

I am having some of the same problems bleeding my front brakes after changing the pads and mounting a new rotor. ie. cant get the spongyness out of the brakes. I ran almost 12oz of brake fluid through the system. Used the mityvac and then tried it the old fashioned way. Before I try some of the tips I have read, ie letting the caliper dangle, my question is what is on page 6 of the forum that keeps getting referred to. The thread I am reading only goes to page five.

Thanks,

Ted

Had the same problem with the front brake on my TBA. Cracked the banjo bolt at the reservoir and systems all go. Have bleed many brake systems but appears the normal routine does not work on these.

Forgive me if I'm being stupid, but when I crack the banjo bolt, do I do it with the system at rest, and with the master cylinder cover on and tight?

That is what I am thinking to do, and wait for some fluid to flow.

Thanks,

Ted

I have never had any issues bleeding the front brakes but I have heard in this case you can pull the lever in and put a rubber band on it and leave it over night. In the morning all is supposed to be good. I never had to do this so just regurgitating what I have read here.

Well, I strapped the lever back last nite with a length of velcro. This morning it didn't seem any different. The brakes do work, so I rode to work today. When I got home, I pulled the caliper and let it dangle for a bit, tapping it here and there with my plastic mallet to free up any errant bubbles. I then used the mityvac to bleed the system. I did this slowly, over the course of an hour or so, giving the system a chance to collect more bubbles. When I was satisfied the line was air free, I remounted the caliper. No difference. So I dismounted the caliper again and tried the paint stick between the pads idea, which is prescribed in the Haynes manual too. (they just say to use a piece of thick metal stock) With the caliper dangling yet again, I bled the brake, tapping it with the mallet and turning it to try to chase out any bubbles. I got the fluid running totally clear.

So I went to put the caliper back on and discovered that my paint stick was a bit thinner than my new EBC rotor! So I pulled the pads and pressed the pistons back in, and reassembled everything again.

Brakes were a little stiffer, so I bled them again with the caliper on the bike. Came up better, but not what I would have expected from a new rotor, pads and now a completely flushed hydraulic system.

I think I will strap the lever back again overnight to see what happens, if anything and try another on the bike bleed again tomorrow.

If I try the 'paint stick' thing again, I'm gonna make my own on my table saw with a piece of maple, so its a little thicker and won't compress like a piece of pine.

I appreciate the input from you all!

Ted

Not to dredge up an old thread, but THANKS guys! i cant get any psi out of my system. the calipers need repacked because they don't want to float back after pressure, but changed pads and never had trouble in 10 yrs! now hardly any pressure at all!. going to try the tricks here

rear one can be a pita.

Try bleeding the line by slightly cracking open at the master, if all else fails. Werked fer me.