Gary (and Benny),
From what I figure, the neutral indicator switch should be right under the gearbox selector shaft. The neutral indicator switch (NIS) uses a copper washer. You may remove the NIS to inspect, but be sure to anneal the copper washer before reassembly, or buy some spares if you do order a new NIS. You might try Palm Beach Triumph if you need to order as Bob may have one on the shelf.
What is the operating principle of the NIS? Plunger or sensor? It is positioned under the drum assembly selector (into which the gearbox selector shaft resides), so it must detect a
slot. Magnetically or physically? The NIS’s very name seems to indicate a physical switch…Either way, removal for inspection will allow you to determine which it is and if it’s a sensor you’ll be able to clean it and if it’s a plunger you may free it up. The NIS could be of a ball-bearing socket type that rides along a surface too. Careful of the oil that may come out. Have a M10 bolt handy to plug up the case while the switch is out. (At least the copper washer for the NIS is an M10).
Have you checked both ends of the neutral subharness? One end would be under the gearbox selector shaft. The other end is? Maybe next to the relays along the top tube, but my guess would place it on top of the air box under the harness cover. Check the cable for continuity when you locate both ends.
Benny was saying that the bike never thinks it is in neutral. The NIS sounds like the culprit, but the wire could be too. I can’t imagine why the indicator light being burnt out would impact the circuit, but it may. That is simple enough to check out. The indicator light can be checked by removing the
tank console, removing the tube the lamp is in then
rolling back the tube to afford access to the lamp.
Hope this helps.
