Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Won't start

So far I've cleaned the battery contacts, the starter relay contacts, and the starter contact. I put a little dielectric grease on each for good luck, but perhaps thats a no-no on the high voltage side? (Apparently the starter gets it's ground via mounting surfaces?)

With a fully charged battery (according to the trickle charger indicator) the engine spins over a few times, then the starter relay makes that bumblebee on crack buzzing noise. I could be flooded as well, as I was adjusting a new set of throttle cables, but the engine doesn't spin very long before the bumble bee gets all uppity, say 2 to 3 seconds of cranking.


The Westco battery was purchased new in November of 06. I don't see a date code stamped on it so I don't know it's DOB. I do believe the Westco was made in a recycled case, as the bottom of it was worn on day one, for whatever that's worth.

I haven't gone through the Haynes manual prescribed starter relay VOM test procedure yet.

I suppose I'm up to buying a battery, unless someone has more tips.

Thanks

Pressume you have spark to the plugs, etc

I haven't checked for spark, but it used to crank longer than a few seconds during cold starts. Now it goes to relay buzz in 2 seconds.

the dielectric grease is never a bad idea.

If you have a shorted cell, you wont have enough amperage to continue cranking it over. Youll show good voltage but not enough "umph". You can try to clamp on a volt meter and see what kinkd of voltage you have when you try to start it. My guess is, it will drop way to low. Might need a batt

my 04 cranks as long as I hold the button (origonal bettery) the buzz sounds like the battery is low or connection bad enough that it isn't getting enough juice. Solinoid could be bad as well. How many miles ya got in how long?
Trickle charger indicator might not be accurate carbon pile load tester is the best way to tell next is load tester with heat element.Back yard way that also works very well is hook a VOLT meter directly to the battery and crank if it drops below 11.5 volts it's the battery.

LOL Erwin and I must have been typing the same thing at the same time! LOL

Will it Bump start?

sounds likely to be the battery or a loose connection.
check the batter with a meter.
should read 12 volts or more at rest.
should not drop below 10 volts during start-up.
if it does the battery is shot , get a new one.

check all connections ,
both battery posts , both starter relay posts and
ground to motor block( yes it is a pain to get to).

any of these could cause the buzzing in the starter
relay.

If it drops that far chances are the battery has a bad cell.

When you go to NAPA just have them put your old battery on their battery tester. Almost all Auto Part stores have battery testers, which they should be able to configure for a motorcycle battery. This could save you from having to buy a new battery, or it will confirm you are doing the correct thing by replacing it.

Tom

the ground from the battery to the block.
from the battery under the carb then under the center
frame post towards the rear and down, between the block
and the swing arm.
just at the bottom of the swing arm the ground is attached
to the block by one of the bolts that hold the engine case
halfs together.
like I said a real pain , and difficult to see if you still
have the airbox in .
easier to follow with the freak installed.
and very unlikely to be loose.

Thanks. I'll take a peek and see if I can muster inspiration to wrench on it. (Doubt it)

Glad to report the starting issues are gone. It was the battery. Lesson learned - don't let AGM type batteries discharge too far - they may not come back. The battery that went dead was installed 11/06. I'm so delighted I could...
I'd be out riding now if it wasn't 40 & raining.

Now that you mention it, my original batter was fine till I let it drain one winter. Never came back. Managed to make it from VT down to the ferry because it held a charge JUST long enough for gas stops and the trip on the ferry (bout an hour). Then it was toast.

I have to cop to neglecting to charge mine enough over the Winter. I'm now running a NAPA 209 CCA that shipped dry with the acid separate. Hopefully that method will offer a fresh start / long life. I let 'er run long enough to get the oil up to 100 F, then shut down for the night.

Yeah I bought a battery tender the weekend I went to VT to get it in hopes that would fix it. No go. But I still have the tender!!

I have a battery tender from Harbor freight that cost me $4 seems to work just fine.(I am a little leary of thier stuff sometimes)

New battery..especially one that shipped dry...you should charge with a battery charger until fully charged. I tell people this when I have to go out on a jump start too. Your charging system is not designed to bring a very low battery back to full charge and won't do so. You won't notice it but it will decrease the life of the battery.