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Rear turn signals
#138705 03/08/2007 12:47 PM
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I know newspeedmaster.com sells a kit that brings turn signals from the standard shoulder width distance apart in a little bit more but has anyone actually tried to just cut the extension bar that the lights are mounted on? That seems like a quick and easy job that wouldn't require much new hardware if at all, just wonderin all of your thoughts and opinions.


Nick Derry "Whoever dies with the most toys, wins"!
Re: Rear turn signals
B00ZEfighter #138706 03/08/2007 12:56 PM
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I think the bar is threaded on both ends. Its not as simple as cutting it shorter.


Learning from my mistakes... again and again.
Re: Rear turn signals
nuthin #138707 03/08/2007 1:11 PM
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Quote:

I think the bar is threaded on both ends. Its not as simple as cutting it shorter.





Yep. There are two problems.

1. Holding the shortened nipple while re-threading - You'll need a 'like' threaded reciever on the threaded end as a vise will mar it and you probably won't have room for the die anyway.
2. Not certain, but I think the threads are metric pipe - not US NPT or bolt NC/NF. Either way- unless you have access to dies, you'll need to determine what they are.


2004 Triumph Speedmaster (J Lo) 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner (Adele)
Re: Rear turn signals
B00ZEfighter #138708 03/08/2007 1:17 PM
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Re: Rear turn signals
SalMaglie #138709 03/08/2007 2:27 PM
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thanks for the info guys


Nick Derry "Whoever dies with the most toys, wins"!
Re: Rear turn signals
B00ZEfighter #138710 03/08/2007 8:05 PM
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Larryshep is the man for that.


Benny Black & Silver '02 Too many mods to list Not enough miles ridden
Re: Rear turn signals
bennybmn #138711 03/08/2007 9:06 PM
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Here's what I did, First I ordered a chrome spacer from JP Cycles. I ordered the 1 1/4 inch that has a 3/8 inside diameter. Went to home depot and bought two of the 1/8 pipe that were 3 inches long and 8 nuts to fit. You'll find them in the light parts area. Placed the light housing in a vice and I used rubber to protect the housings but you could use wood or something. Used the two nuts tightened them together as a jam nut and used a 14mm to take the stems out of the housing. You have to cut the wires so leave room to splice them back together. Put one end of the pipe into the housing used thread lock and used two of the nuts as a jam setup. Put the spacer on and then did the same on the other end. If your going to go with the electrical connection set up to have brake and running light also this is the way to go because you'll have room to get all the wires through the shaft.


Beautiful Black, T Bike pipes cross pipe blocked 18 tooth.
Re: Rear turn signals
popcorn #138712 03/08/2007 9:11 PM
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It's not too hard, buy the $5 die at the hardware store. I described how to do it in detail here a year ago, try a search.


2007 FJR 1300 2007 V-Strom DL1000 2007 ST 1300 2007 Scrambler
Re: Rear turn signals
bennybmn #138713 03/08/2007 9:11 PM
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Booze, I shortened mine aand the hardest part was getting them unthreaded without scratching them. heat on the joint works great. Once I cut an end off I saved one end for threading back into the light. For the other end I drilled out to tap with an one eigth pipe tap. Then I went to the hardware store and bought [2] 1 inch long by one eighth inch lamp nipples and a couple of the slim nuts to fit. the nipples will thread into the tapped out stem, use locktite, and the other end into the license plate bracket with the nut holding it in then string the wires thru. If tapping is out of the question then just drill the shortened stem out and run a longer lamp nipple thru and use the nipple nuts on each end. they come in different lengths. use locktite. star washers under the nuts might help keep them from turning later on.


mike


2006 neon blue speedmaster
Re: Rear turn signals
mike57 #138714 03/08/2007 9:13 PM
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Hey ,popcorn types faster.


mike


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Re: Rear turn signals
B00ZEfighter #138715 03/09/2007 10:42 AM
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I started the post referenced by SalMaglie and thought I'd add a couple of pictures.





Note that I also did the running light conversion that was noted in the other thread.

Steven


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