Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Exhaust Exhaust drillers speak out...

I still haven't "heard" the exhaust system I want to spend my money on. But, neither could I live with the stock sound of my '06 America. I've completely removed the last baffle and plate. The sound is close, but not quite where I want it to be. So my question for the drillers: If I drill baffle plate #2, which would give me a deeper tone without being raspy? A couple of small (say 1/4") holes or one larger 1/2" hole. Or does it make a difference?

doesn't matter,why not just remove it? it comes out alot easier than the first one. if you drill the air box it really adds to the sound of your bafflectomy.
mike

I too have removed the first and second baffle with 4, 1/2in. holes in the third baffle.I've got a deep rumble that reminds me of my 1970 Bonneville with no tinny or rasspy sound.You'll have to find a exstra long 1/2 bit to reach in there.

Growing up Triumph in the 60s I agree with Bigjack. I will tell you drilling the the 3rd baffle with 3 holes or so after taking out the first two is real close to the classic Triumph rumble. If you don't drill your box throw away the snorkels and drop a K&N filter in the hole.

If you go that far in removing the baffles do you have to re-jet? I have the first one removed and one 3/8 hole in the second.

Thanks all, for the input. Looks like I've got a Saturday morning project. Is the baffle spacing on all stock BA pipes the same (except for the tips)? Reason I ask, is the second baffle plate is about 10" from the end. I had a heck of a time clearing out the first plate. Even if the second is easier to punch out, I'd still need a drill bit in excess of 12" just to reach beyond plate #2. Can't find that at the local hardware.

Post deleted by Grump

I have all baffles removed on the Speedmaster pipes. Only thing left is that cone at the front of the pipe. I am really happy with the sound. There were holesaws made by a member floating around to make the job easier. In my opinion, this is a great low cost mod.

I bought my SM used, and it came with TOR long pipes. I pulled off the muffler and was surprised that it was a straight clean shot all the way through. I am assuming taht this is the way it came as opposed to having been drilled out.

So far I like the sound and I'm trying the break in the neighbors gently.

Does anyone know if mine seem to be original TOR's or is it possible they did have baffles that have been drilled out?

Thanks!

Gerry

There are at least 2 kinds of TORs, you can see straight through one of them.

You can see straight through mine.

I can see straight through my stock pipes. Wait, I removed everything from my stock pipes.

I am about as mechanical as a rock!! Does anyone have pictures, kind of a step by step process, in how they removed their baffles???

Ceuls

the first one, I drilled a bunch of holes around the outer diameter of the plate and then connected the dots with a screw driver and pulled it out. All the rest are just secured with 3 small tack welds. I tapped on the welds with a very long screw driver until they broke free and then used a coat hanger with a hook bent on one end to pull it out. faster and easier than it sounds.

Mine are gutted- reducers and all. A fence T-post works great. Take the pipes off the bike. Put the 't' post on the ground with the dirt barb at the ground. Slide the big end of the exhaust over the 't' post top until is hits the baffle and let it rest there. Pick the ensemble up off the ground by the post with one hand while holdig the exhaust against the post with the other. Drive the ensemble into the ground (concrete surface) using the hand holding the pipe- let go of the post before starting the downward motion. Start small. only go up a couple inches at first. You'll get the hang of it. By the time you get to the 3 baffle you'll be able to knock them out in one whack. I've done two sets now- one by banging the baffles out while on the bike with a hi-lift steel handle (ruined the handle) and a 4# hammer and another set by the above method. The above method is a breeze. The hardest part is getting the offending baffles out...

Post deleted by Grump

Thanks Grump!

I could not see any indication that baffles had once been in there.

Gerry

With two baffles out, you might find a 130 jet works well. See also Pat's Jetting Calculator.
http://www.dinqua.com/
I'm running 130s with three different '02 - '05 Speedmaster style stock based pipe configs - one set at two baffles and then some gone, another set factory stock and uncut for the quiet they offer on long rides, and a another soon to be be created one baffle out and then some drilling, with a very deep bottom of the pipe slash cut via my chop saw to leave the top half with the original taper on the pipe end, kind of like a hypodermic needle. I don't know what they'll look like, but we'll see in a week or two. The price for used stock pipes is usually very reasonable, so I've collected two extra sets.
(I'm too cheap to buy the nice aftermarket pipes. )

All baffles out little reducer cone at the front in for some back pressure. Nice loud low rumble' No air injection . No air box K&N filters 155 main jet 48 pilot jet. perfect mix on the dyno and sucks up Hardleys even big bore 6 speeds with dyno tune and injection can't catch me.Mine is an 04 Speedmaster. Drill the handlebars while you are at it and hide the wires looks good.

This is the first time I've considered drilling out baffles on my Tors but I just don't want to bugger things up playing with something I don't know a lot about. There also seems to be different methods rather than some solid standard approach etc. Is there a diagram or photo out there that better explains the process? Otherwise It sounds like it's a matter of getting a long drill and going for it eh?

thats how I learned. I had a set of pipes that were extra to play with first. Those pipes actually ended up on my bike then I did Wendys and a few others too. If you take your time and give it some thought it is not hard. Just be gental until you get it down so as not to make any marks on the outside. This guy , although not a mechanic , was of some help to me to see what was in there. (stock pipes anyway) http://members.optusnet.com.au/%7Ematt_l/

Take off your slip ons and measure the diameter of the header pipe. Once you have that you can find an inside diameter pipe to fit almost anywhere. I found mine in my buddies junk pile drilled a hole for a bolt, ran it through the center to get more back pressure and stablize it . I run straight pipes. Depending on your elevation you may need to re-jet. I did and if felt restricted so I went back to the stock jets. Then again, I am at 4800ft and when I ride I can get up to around 9,000.

I am going to take my stockers to work and cut the last baffle out with the plasma cutter. Should I just try cutting the weld or will I have to cut all the way around to get it to come out?

Greetings from Arkansas! stock 04 BA, few questions, w/ the fence post removal system, it goes in at the header end? Does it take out the baffle at the slash cuts? i see Bubs has a kit to plug AI, is that enough or do I need to remove more? Thanks, read all your posts!

If you go in at the header end, you'll remove the reducers- and it turns out you need those... Go in the slash cut end. Put a shoprag or something around the "T" post to protect the chrome, etc., etc. I used a 2x6 to prtect the concrete. The AI removal kit is needed, as is a rejet. The AI will (mostly) eliminate poping and backfiring and the rejet will make it run stronger. Use Pat's (a.k.a. Dinqua) calculator to figure out what size. http://www.dinqua.com/Triumph/Executables/Patsjettingcalculator.exe

Thanks, not sure what I'll do, found a set of Bub's slash cuts for $336 NIB. Not much of a mechanic, usually end up buying parts twice, ect. lol. All I can find on the AI removal is a set of fancy looking plugs that appear to go in heads next to spark plugs. Anyone got a thread on AI removal bookmarked? Thanks again! Edited to ad I found it, wow, what a ton of info on here, eh???

I did both a Speedmaster set and a slash cut America only real difference is the need to make a nice cut on both pipes that match to remove the taper. It is best to do 1 baffle at a time from the big end being careful not to damage the reducer. I did mine carefully with a 45 degree air chisle normally used to remove car mufflers. I had to make an extension to reach the baffle farther down. But I very carefully worked my way around with short bursts with the cutting part paralel to the outside of the pipe. Once I was done still had the mesh with packing around the outside and no baffles. If you look down inside you can't even tell there were ever any in there.

Go here:
http://www.newspeedmaster.com/html/parts.html
Get the AI Removal kit and jet kit. While you are at it, get the "D" tool and the carb screw kit. The carb screws are soft- you will goober at least one of them and the "D" tool is for resetting your idle mixture screws. You can call the guy. His Name is Brent and he'll help you- really nice guy and "knoledgeable". Finally- get the carbs balanced when you are done.
it sounds like a lot- it's not, and the performance gained is nothing short of shocking.

The "D" screws are easily replaced to. If you know any guys at a shop anywhere they can probably get you a slotted set from a junk carb I got a set free from a friend that has a Hardley shop. The ones in my carbs I carefully pulled with needlenose pliers when I had the carbs off. Then I carefully cut a slot in them with my Dremel tool and fiber cutting disc.

nologic, if you have the pea shooter type you could use a plasma cutter to cut around the little tube and maybe a die grinder to get it closer to the rolled chrome. I used a hole saw and a half inch drill.I guess that method would work on either style of stock silencer but after that one you need hole saws on extensions or a long punch and hammer or the fence post.


mike

I have done both types of stock pipes and the air hammer slowly woking your way around is not just to cut the welds. If you slowly work your way around it crushes the baffle plate down so that it fits out through the opening at the end of the slash cut without hurting the rolled over part. I use a horizontal band saw to cut the ends off the Speedmaster pipes so that isn't an issue on those.

P.S. put the chisel inside the lip of the baffle plate not against the outside of the pipe.

It may work but I would still be afraid of the heat. I considered that too before I did it.

John,

Easiest way get a 24" section of re-bar and grind one end down to a flat chisle. Each baffle has three spot welds that can be easily seen with a flashlight or shop light.

Line up your just made chisle and one good whack and your done move on to the next and so on. No damage to the outside of the pipe.

Do one set at a time and see how you like the sound, most guy's around here stop at the second set some go all the away. If you take out the second set get a wire coat hanger it will help getting the baffel out.

I bought a can of high temp flat black paint and gave the inside a shot once I had the baffles out. Looking up my pipes you would never know they were ever there.

If you need a "D" tool I will give you mine I bought a set of thumb screws from Brent.

P.S. I did pull the AI out at the same time, but the bike ran fine and I never re-jetted until I bought my freak kit.

John

John, my first baffle is about 12inches from the end and having a look at it, I can't see where the spot welds are to hit but anyway, you say give it some good wacks with a long enough chisel around where the baffle meets the pipe, and this should be good enough to dislodge it right?

I can answer for him...yes

Gerry, there are several variations of the TORs. Hard to say if yours were gutted or came that way.