Bonneville America Forums Forums General Motorcycle Forums Other Bikes 1972 T120 (Junk or Jewell)

Guys got a 1972 Triumph T120 he wants me to come and get for $200. I would say its in "poor" condition, and needs alot. The engine has good compression, but man, it needs ALOT. Junk or Jewell?

For $200 ? I would definitely get it if it doesn't cost a bunch of money to go pick up. If you are serious about doing a restore it's gonna cost you a hellofa lot more than that but for $200 it's well worth it. I have a '67 T120 at my folks house back in the UK that is also 'rough' but it's mine and worth a lot more than $200 to me. Go for it.

I'll take the risk of angering '71-'72 owners. Nothing personal.

I knew a collector who had over 40 Bonnies wharehoused in Oregon and a variety of other English bikes (Nortons, BSA's, Matchless, Vincent etc.). Rich tax lawyer type, but a very nice, honest man. He restored and turned bikes around all the time to the collector community as a hobby for years now. When shopping for a Meriden, I was told '71 and 'early '72 (T120) are the least desirable years for a collector. There resale value does not compare to models before that, and surprisingly afterwards. How true this is I can't be sure.

With that said, I'd go for it, but not retore it. A '72 would be perfect "bobber" material.

Just my opinion.....

Regards,

Tom

What's the engine/frame number?

The motor alone is probably worth at least twice that. If you're not interested PM me, I might be.

Number off of title is T120RVCG51184.

That's a somewhat rare 5-speed manufactured in March of 1972. Supposedely, less than 500 were shipped to the US with the 5 speed unit in 1971 and not many more than that in 1972. The 5 speed is a plus for the '71 and '72 models, though Some folks had problems with first gear "blowing up on them". Others, claim the 5-speed transmission for those years ('71 and '72) was out-sourced and Triumph didn't begin putting in a proprietary 5-speed until 1973.

Talked to my friend for clarification of my earler statement. 1971 was the first year of the Oil-In-Frame Model. It was designed by a team actually ran by a German rocket scientist. When the frame went into production Triumph soon learned the engine would not fit as a whole. After extensive retooling to accomodate the engine as a whole during production, the frames for '71 and '72 are the tallest of all Bonnevilles (seat to gound clearnace the highest), throwing off their handling somewhat. This was rectified with the T140's.

I'd still go for it, but not restoration. I'd resell the parts or start spending money and bob it.

Some more info for 71-72:
The first project from Umberslade Hall that goes into production is a new, tall (31 inches) frame design, with the oil reservoir in its top tube which is fitted to all BSA and Triumph 650 twins (the frame was actually designed for Umberslade by outsider Rob North, on contract). Stephen Mettam, 29, was in charge of the group's five-man styling team. But Umberslade Hall, with 300 employees by 1970, is downsized after the company posts a 2.5 million pound deficit by mid-year. The need to reduce the new design's excess height causes severe production delays for the new bikes. Financial problems also forced Triumph out of racing.
The new Bonnie is called the T120R (R for road). It also incorporates other design changes aside from the oil-bearing frame, including new hubs, twin leading shoe brakes, paper air filters, new headlight, rubber-mounted tachometer and speedometer. But the engine remains the same.

BTW; Those 5 speed gears can be retrofitted to a 4 speed case. I've heard the 5 speed really does not give that much overall advantage, just closer ratio's between gears.

Hey doc I'm over in Carolina and if you don't take it let me know I'd like a shot at it for a bobber project.
PM me
Jim

Well, you learn something new everyday.
I didn't think the oil in frame started until '73 or '74.
Guess I don't know as much as I thought I did.
Uncle Charlie

I guess the question is, fix it up to keep it and ride it? Bob it? Fix it to re-sell it? (seems to be the least popular...) Or sell off some parts? Up to you...

OR....Because the '71-'72 ARE the least desirable among collectors(your friend's right, Tom) and thus even if you'd spend 4-5 grand restoring it to original specs, you'd still a bike "worth" the least amount of all the classic Bonnies....WHY NOT buy it and make a STREETTRACKER out of it?!

The "oil-in-frames" bikes were designed to be a factory version of the racetrack-proven Trackmaster (O-I-F) flattrack racer frames, and even though they do sit a little high(the '71's especially, as the '72's seat sits about one inch lower), they would make a GREAT Custom Streettracker.

And so, what I'd do is either nickel plate the frame OR in order to save some money, I'd have it power-coated silver, and then I find one of those places that sell the flatttrack bodywork. Then bolt a pair of 1 3/4inch "TT" pipes on it(baffled please...don't wake up the whole freakin' neighborhood, now would we?!)

I'd cut down the fenders(okay..MUDGUARDS for you Limeys out there) and mount some Dunlop K180s on it, and VOILA(sorry for the french(spit) here)...and you've got yourself ONE COOL BIKE, that NOBODY else has, and PROBABLY would fetch MORE moola than a stock '71 or '72 if you'd ever decide to sell it.

The whole thing should run you about 2500 to 3000 smackers!!!(less any engine work, o' course)

Now THAT'S what I'd do!!!

Cheers,
Dwight

for 200.00, i'd drive down there from Neb.

any pics?

cat

No pics yet, bike is still in Union City. Guy called AGAIN last night wanting me to come get it....don't worry about the money....I'm like, DUDE, ya gotta give me a chance to round up a pick up truck. Im working 6 days a week, and tomorrow is Christmas eve....

Mark, I agree with most everyone here. If you can swing it borrow a pick up truck and just get it and put it in your garage. Sounds like the guy is trying to make some space for himself. I even bet you could get it for a $100. You don't have to decide what to do with it right away. Sounds like you will be able to make money on the deal. I had a '71 Trophy, bought it new. I was pretty impressed with the oil in the frame part, but it had a 4 speed. You could just look at it for a while then then let you imagination do the rest.

Got her home yesterday (Thursday), had to remove handlebars at risers in order to fit her into the Astrovan. Man what a smell...there's nothing like the smell of rotted gas for 35 miles! Anyway, the front wheel has a broken spoke, seat missing, will need turn signals, wiring re-done, missing right air cover and triangular gap plate, headlight lens cracked, pipes (header pipes are there, and in good shape), coils appear to be o.k. (both have 4.0 ohms) good compression. Took Amals off, and are soaking, but appear to be in good shape, has "ape hanger" handlebars, that will definitely go (my 7 year old is STILL laughing), gas tank has no dents, and VERY clean (missing cap), but will need paint. Rear wheel rust came off nicely, and all chrome is now in "like new" condition, with help of steel wool (have'nt even started on front wheel). Front struts are badly "pitted", as well as front wheel hub. Should'nt take too much to get her going, 3 hours went by in what seemed like 15 minutes of getting to know the bike....having a blast......

72 and 73 were the least liked when they were new too. Don't let that discourage you. As most won't collect or restore them and whats left is becoming a bober. I would restore it and keep it. If they are not popular then how many will be left in 10 more years? Rare=Popular. Most didn't like Edsel either but I would like to have one now.

sounds like you're off to a good start. there are loads of parts out there. that four 0000 steel wool does a great job.

it probably has points. as long as you have the amals off soaking, i'd check to see if the float bowls are cracked and if they hold gas. this was a headache i ran into. those carb kits are cheap, too: all the gaskets rubber rings etc. be sure you don't over-tighten the carbs when you put them back on-- the barrels warp very easily.

have fun

british cycle supply

british only

baxter cycle

amal exploded

cat

Perfect Cat, I have been looking for this kind of information for 3 days now. I have the AMALs off, and looking like new, but need gasket sets for them, I have decided to remove the engine and steam clean the frame. The front hub and wheel may not be salvagable, as pitting has penetrated all the way through. It will need handle bars,as they are "ape hangars" if anybody wants 'em. Im thinking 5 to 6 hundred dollars to get her the way I want her, and I think it will be worthwhile....Thanks again...Mark.

Sounds like alot of fun.Lot of info here too in there tech section.
http://gabma.no-ip.org/

Jim

Thanks Jim, you just helped me out tremendously.....

Glad that helped.They're in your neck of the woods aren't
they.Get up to the rally they put on in June,I go every year
it's full of the old brit rides.I've picked up some good parts for my old Bonnie there.
Jim

Thanks, got entire bike dis-assembled down to the frame, will either "dip" or bead blast frame, triple tree off (bearings bad), front and rear wheels dis-assembled (bearings good), considering removing rims (de-spoke) for replating with front fork housings. Will need chain, shoes, front brake linkage, miriad of other parts. How big of a deal is it gonna be to "re-spoke" wheels, I have never done it, but it's either that, or $500 for e-bay wheels. Hope to have her done mid to late summer (probably fall early winter). Wiring harness in "good" shape.

Quote:

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How big of a deal is it gonna be to "re-spoke" wheels, I have never done it, but it's either that, or $500 for e-bay wheels.

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I can remember (I'll bet a few others can too) when knowing how to lace your wheels was just part of owning a bike. It takes some tools and time. One of my friend's ol' ladys (back in the day) laced and trued wheels all the time for anybody that needed it. (Or was just too lazy er uh BUSY to mess with it).

Well, I done done it now....I removed the rear rim from the hub, and now hold 40 rusty spokes in my hand....Have'nt even started on the front...Boy, this is either gonna be fun OR expensive.....

Seems like you might want to get the carbs back together and see if the engine will fire up and run, prior to doing anything else. If the engine needs a rebuilt that is where the hidden cost will be.

Too late, vintage6t, the wiring was in such bad shape when I got the bike, the only thing I could do is a general inspection of the engine, and check compression, which seemed to be o.k. I ran through all the gears using the kick start, all seem to work, and shifts fine.

Met "Ian" at Georgia Cycle Warehouse. His entire facility is nothing but vintage Triumph bikes. He had about 10 on his showroom floor, about 25 more in various stages of refurb, and shelves full of frames, tanks, covers, wheels, and anything else you can think of. He will be able to get everything I need. We polished the rear hub, and man, it looks better than brand new now. My friend Sam has a re-chroming shop about 15 miles away from Ian's shop, with full polishing / replating / and re-chroming capabilities. Just a matter of time and money now....

Can save rear rim, front is garbage. Front rim $144, spoke kits, $75 each, re-chrome rear rim $100. "current high bidder on front hub plate on e-bay $12. Dropped frame off for dip and strip $82, will be ready Friday. All other parts blasted and ready. Part time job dried up for now, will have to go into holding pattern until fun funds return.

It starts adding up in a hurry, doesn't it? Good though that you have local sources for parts and restoration.

I'm heading to Phoenix in the morning to go to a British/Euro motorcycle swap meet. If my wife asks, I'm just going to look.

Really though I don't have enough money to spend, just going to look and get an idea of how much they're charging in the area for a project bike. If I had real money I'd be in Vegas next weekend for the big auction.

b717doc,

I owned a brand new 71 750 Tiger, 5 speed. Owned it for 30 years and never had a problem with it, some Lucus electrical problems over the year's, but always able to get her home.

One thing that is critical. Oil in frame was always clean and easy to maintain the welds on the frame were top notch and you will never have to worry about the welds cracking.

Just make sure you throughly clean the inside of the frame when you get it back from the strippers, the oil filter is a screen located at the bottom of the main down tube. If there is one thing that will kill your project quicker than anything is the motor freezing up. The screen works great in keeping junk out of the enigne and tranny, but can clog up very quickly. I changed my oil and cleaned the screen every 500 to 1,000 miles.

As for the five speed tranny, when I sold it I had 92,000 miles on it and changed the clutch once at 70,000 miles. The trick is not to beat on it, hole shots, 7,000 rpms speed shifts will destory the gears quickly.

You can tune these bikes easily your self you just need a timing wheel, these were cutouts from the manuals, they have two sets of points which are easy to set, put the bike up on the center stand and put it in gear and up can spin the rear wheel until the cam opens the points easy to set the set screw at this point.

The other thing I remember is the nuts, bolts and screws were neither american standard, nor metic but a British standard I believe called "wentworth", my bike came with a pretty good tool kit that made working on all the frame, wheels and tuning pretty easy. major engin or traay work really involves alot of speciaility tools, very few gaskets everything was a precision machine fit.

You are going to love the feeling in your butt and every girl who every rides on the bike is going to be your best friend. I will not tell you how, but you will soon discover it once you get her togther and out on the open road, only bike you will want to ride on the slab. Just and incentive to finish the job.

Good luck.

Bike completely dis-assembled, frame dipped ($60) and corrosion inhibited, will start on getting to "rolling frame" condition as soon as part time job in General Aviation starts back up (no work for 3 weeks now). Boss says to hang in there, will pick up around mid March...My brother says just go to Autozone and get new high quality spray paint and primer, is all I need. He did his harley frame, and man it looks sharp...the cheapest I could find powder coating is like $250....gonna go with the "lots of sanding and paint" method using high quality "color match metaflake" spray paint for the frame, and will have tank and fenders professionally painted....