SalMaglie wrote, Unscrew the fork caps(being careful by putting your hand over the nut, because they can spring out like a Jack-in-the-box), Take out the old springs using a coat hanger with a little hook bent on the end, and put in the new ones. There's also a spring seat and a spacer on top of the the springs, so watch out for those and remeber which order they go back in)If you aren't close to a required fork oil change(24,000 miles or 4 years), I wouldn't sweat it. If you want to try the 15w fork oil, then it's more involved. Best to get a shop manual if you don't have one, and you don't feel all that sure of what you're doing. If you're confident, then you'll want to take the forks off, drain the oil into a pan. Measure out 548cc(18.5 oz) of fork oil and pour it in. Then pump the fork a few times to get any trapped air out of the oil. Fully compress the fork, and then let it sit a few minute to stabilize. Use a wooden dowel(found at any good hardware store), and stick it down inside the fork till it dips into the oil. Holding the dowel firmly against the edge of the fork tube, take a Sharpie and mark it at the top of the inner fork tube. Remove the dowel and take a tape measure and measure the distance from the Sharpie mark to where the dowel starts to get wet with oil(like a dipstick on a car). The distance should be 166mm(6 1/2"). It's better to slightly underfill than to overfill as more oil means more pressure in the forks which can blow the fork seals, and you don't want to have to change those out. If you have too much oil in, take a Turkey baster found at any grocery store, and remove a bit of the oil till you get the correct amount.

Blowing gravel off rural roads