The way the chain is routed, you have to use a chain breaker and the new chain has to either have a clip type master link or be riveted together. You don't have to pull the rear wheel, but if you want to remove or install the chain while it is whole, you have to pull the swingarm and that's a bit less than fun.

Let's hope there's intelligent life somewhere in space 'cause it's buggar all down here. -- Monte Python