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Best oil filter/oil
#119035 12/18/2006 1:54 PM
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LimeyD Offline OP
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Which is the best brand of oil filter and oil, for protection and longevity?


Oh man!! I'm going to jail!!
Re: Best oil filter/oil
LimeyD #119036 12/18/2006 1:58 PM
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I would send a private message to Dinqua. He's the site oil expert.

Last edited by Fishercat; 12/18/2006 1:59 PM.

Live Free or Die Velvet
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119037 12/18/2006 3:52 PM
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Quote:

I would send a private message to Dinqua. He's the site oil expert.




Funny guy Ron! Keep your day job eh?.

But my answer is as always...Shell Rotella T synthetic 5w40 in the blue gallon jugs at wallyworld ($14), Pureone PL14612 filter from AutoZone/Advanced Auto ($6).
They both work fine and will save you many $$.

Ok, "real Triumph oil only" naysayers...have at it.


A word to the wise is not necessary. It is the stupid ones who need the advice. Pat
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Dinqua #119038 12/18/2006 4:03 PM
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Sorry Pat, I couldn't resist when I saw yet another oil post.


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Re: Best oil filter/oil
Dinqua #119039 12/18/2006 4:04 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

I would send a private message to Dinqua. He's the site oil expert.




Funny guy Ron!





Yup I'm seeing a Deadman Walking, next time I see you Ron


THE VOICE OF REASON per: Stewart AF&AM/Shriner/Scoutmaster 130/45 TBS 2shim SS Uni 18/42
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119040 12/18/2006 4:43 PM
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Quote:

I would send a private message to Dinqua. He's the site oil expert.





06BA,-AI,NoBfls,K&NPods,TBS,155/45,2 3/4Out,SidGapPlgs,Wirsnbrs NawImPrityFknFarFrmOkMan
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Reido113 #119041 12/18/2006 7:28 PM
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Purolator PURE one seem to get the best reviews. I'm trying a cycle of Rotella T synthetic, then off to the lab to see what's what. Not to throw out the wet blanket, but Rotella T synth is not a true synthetic oil. It's mostly highly refined dino stock.

Re: Best oil filter/oil
Bucky #119042 12/18/2006 8:24 PM
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Quote:

Purolator PURE one seem to get the best reviews. I'm trying a cycle of Rotella T synthetic, then off to the lab to see what's what. Not to throw out the wet blanket, but Rotella T synth is not a true synthetic oil. It's mostly highly refined dino stock.




You're correct that it's not a PAO Synthetic oil but it's a hydrocracked dyno oil that has many of th benefits of synthetic oil without extended life. If you change it at the normal intervals it's an excellent oil. It's also a very low ash oil and has no additives. It's been proven to work great in wet clutch applications.


Live Free or Die Velvet
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119043 12/18/2006 8:34 PM
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i still dont feel comfortable running regualar oil with a wet clutch, just my feeling, for now i will use motul/mobil one/amsoil

Frank


(Former)05 BA tbike pipes, ai removed, Freak, mikuni hsr 42's, 904, ported/polished head, 1mm oversized valves NOW-2010 silver and black tbird
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Frank #119044 12/18/2006 9:16 PM
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Quote:

i still dont feel comfortable running regualar oil with a wet clutch, just my feeling, for now i will use motul/mobil one/amsoil

Frank




How does synthetic help your clutch?


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Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119045 12/18/2006 9:23 PM
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no no i mean an oil made for a bike with wet clutch, the rotella is nothing more then regular oil correct?

Frank


(Former)05 BA tbike pipes, ai removed, Freak, mikuni hsr 42's, 904, ported/polished head, 1mm oversized valves NOW-2010 silver and black tbird
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Frank #119046 12/18/2006 11:13 PM
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Quote:

no no i mean an oil made for a bike with wet clutch, the rotella is nothing more then regular oil correct?

Frank




Rotella T Synthetic is what they call a Hydrocracked Dyno Synthetic which is different from a PAO and ester based synthetics.

The majority of oil lubricants, including many motor oils, are mineral oil distillates of crude oil. However, synthetic motor oils also have a share in the market. Historically, synthetic motor oils have been made from the following classes of lubricants.

Polyalpha-olefin (PAO) = Group IV base oil
Synthetic esters = Group V base oil
In the last decade of the 20th century, hydrocracked and/or isomerized (Group III) base oils began to be used in motor oils. These oils are also designated as "synthetic" (although PAO's and esters are sometimes included in a final blend).

What Does Synthetic Lubricant Mean?
It was easy to answer this question 10-15 years ago. At that time synthetic hydrocarbons (PAO –
polyalphaolefin) were the bulk of the synthetic basestocks used in lubricant formulations for automotive and
industrial applications. Often these synthetic lubricants included synthetic esters (the reaction product
formed between organic acids and alcohols) to improve seal compatibility.
Ten to 15 years ago, the term partial-synthetic lubricant was used to describe mixtures of synthetic
basestock (PAO – up to 30%) with conventionally refined petroleum oils produced by the solvent extraction
refinery process.
In the 1980’s, highly refined, very pure and colorless, hydrocracked petroleum oils entered the U.S. market.
They offered significantly higher levels of performance than conventionally refined oils in automotive and
industrial lubricant formulations. Early on, these basestocks were described as semi-synthetic basestocks.
After a federal court ruled that hydrocracked oils are also “synthetic”, a lot of “synthetic lubricant”
formulations were introduced on the market formulated with this high performance petroleum oil
basestocks. Costs for these basestocks are less than the traditional “synthetics” but more than
conventionally refined petroleum oils. Except for extreme high and low temperature characteristics, these
hydrocracked oil formulations are the practical equivalent of PAO’s in most automotive and industrial
lubricant applications.
The American Petroleum Institute (API) developed a classification or grouping of lubricant basestocks to
better show the differences between the different types. Each type of lubricant basestock is included in
one of five groups as summarized below:
Saturate Sulfur Viscosity
Group level (wt.%) content (wt.%) Index (VI) Comment
I <90 >0.03 80< VI <120 Conventional petroleum oil
II >90 <0.03 80< VI <120 Hydrocracked
III > 90 <0.03 > 120 Hydrocracked & isomerized
IV Polyalphaolefins (PAO)
V All other stocks not included in group I, II, III or IV. (Esters, PAG, silicones, etc.)
In the API classification, all the oils except Group I can legally be called “synthetic”, but there are different
chemical properties and characteristics associated with each group II through V.
Source: Universal Lubricants Inc., Technical Services Department
January, 2005
0501.1


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Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119047 12/18/2006 11:48 PM
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After a federal court ruled that hydrocracked oils are also “synthetic”, a lot of “synthetic lubricant”
formulations were introduced on the market formulated with this high performance petroleum oil
basestocks.




That was largely due to Castrol's suit, and their desire to label dino based products "synthetic." I believe it Mobil who called them out on the carpet over that.

Rotella T is a very highly respected product engineered for the severe duty of the trucking industry. To give you an idea of how severe that duty is, we knew we had "challenges" with the '04 EGR laden truck engines when the windshield washer fluid was boiling out of the jugs due to under hood temps. That's the truth, Ruth.

I have no direct proof, but I would be inclined to believe that Shell has sunken a great deal of money and resources into keeping Rotella T up to snuff to keep up with the times and to offer a great product, and that's coming from a Mobil Delvac user.

If it wasn't for the fact that we buy our engine oil from an important customer, I wouldn't hesitate to run Rotella T in our x-teen thousand dollar truck engines.

As Winter is trying to settle in here, it may be Spring before I get a Rotella T analysis back from service in my '05 Triumph. I'll probably spring for the TBN test too. Just my best guess, but I can't begin to imagine it's a problem to run Rotella T in a Triumph.

For the few hundred miles so far, I can't tell the difference in the clutch response between Rotella T and the $50 Mobil oil, and I do enough clutch slipping if only to appease a 19 tooth front sprocket.

Re: Best oil filter/oil
Bucky #119048 12/19/2006 7:19 PM
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Mobil did call Castrol out and sued them. Unfortunately Mobil lost the suit and within 2 years changed most of their syn oils to Group III petroleum oils instead of Group IV and V syn oils. This was done so they could compete with Castrol & Vavoline.

Shell Rotella T oil is a good oil, but only a good Petroleum oil. There are large differences between Petroleum oils (Group I, II & III) and Syn oils (Group IV & V) that no amount of refining can over come.

Tom


Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin, US author, diplomat, inventor, physicist, politician, & printer (1706 - 1790)
Re: Best oil filter/oil
tcv #119049 12/19/2006 8:53 PM
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I will agree that true synthetic oils have certain benefits over petroleum based stocks, especially when it comes to extreme temperatures. I also will admit to running Mobil 1 synth in the family fleet of cars, as it gets down to minus 25 or so on occasion here in the Winter. Then again, most of us are running on the bypass oil for the first block or so anyway.

On the other hand, since synthetic oil first appeared over 25 years ago no one has ever (and I'm saying - never) proven in independent testing that any synthetic oils will extend engine life or reduce wear.

If I'm wrong, someone show me the proof. I've been looking for it since Mobil 1 first became available, and haven't found it yet. I'm not talking about Amsoil's biased propaganda or any other oil makers suggested independent proof.

If my Rotella T synth comes back from the lab in decent shape, which is highly likely, I'm going to stick with that. $50 for a gallon of motorcycle oil is absurd.

Re: Best oil filter/oil
Bucky #119050 12/20/2006 1:28 AM
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I have used nothing but Shell Rotella-T Synthetic (5w-40) since I dumped the break-in oil at 500 miles.

I have sent in a sample from every oil change, every 4000 miles (at 26k now). Have seen nothing from the lab that tells me I need to change oils. Obviously, I hope to be singing the same song 75k miles from now, and longer.

I am running the Bosch filter now, and like it for it's short depth, and the black color. I understand it's quality and performance is comparable to the PureOne. I have a hard time finding the PureOne from time to time, so maybe the Bosch will be easier to find.

Check the Tech Vault for the part number.


Keith
Houston
Ridin'Texas
'04 Speedmaster
AI removed, Pingle, UNI Filter, 1 shim, straight-through slash-cut TORs, Stage 1 DynaJet, 140 mains, 3 turns, 16/42 final drive, 115K
2020 T120 Black
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Blackwind #119051 12/20/2006 6:48 AM
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Glad to hear the Rotella T is working out Keith.

I have a hard time finding PureONE filters here in the woods. After the local auto parts store delivered the wrong Puolator to me, I've resorted to buying them in quantity via mail order, both for the Triumph, and also the family 'fleet.'

Use search for PL14612


Although they certainly aren't the only good filters out there.

Re: Best oil filter/oil
Bucky #119052 12/20/2006 7:57 AM
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Thanks Keith, I've been running Shell Rotella since my first oil change as well. It's nice to hear that the lab results are good. I was thinking of trying the Bosch filter also. Someone said the Bosch and the Wix are the same filter. I know that both are highly rated. I've been running the PureOne but was a little concerned about the oil flow with so much media in the filter. I also don't like the purple color of the PureOne.


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Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119053 12/24/2006 11:10 AM
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The Bosch is also a shorter filter. Maybe shorter than stock, I don't know (don't care).

Though I tried to avoid it, I have used the SuperTech filter from Walmart a couple of times (out of convenience?), but the last one I replaced had some pretty severe damage to the bottom from some road humps (speedbumps) on the residential street I have to travel to get to the shop where I work. Probably was taking them too fast, but the thing is, I never suspected anything ever made contact until I saw the bottom of the filter after removing it. Never even considered it a possibility!

Shorter is better.


Keith
Houston
Ridin'Texas
'04 Speedmaster
AI removed, Pingle, UNI Filter, 1 shim, straight-through slash-cut TORs, Stage 1 DynaJet, 140 mains, 3 turns, 16/42 final drive, 115K
2020 T120 Black
Re: Best oil filter/oil
Blackwind #119054 12/24/2006 11:21 AM
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I've never had damage to my filter but I've heard of others having this issue. I would think you would want the filter shorter than the frame.


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Re: Best oil filter/oil
Fishercat #119055 12/26/2006 5:27 PM
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I have got to say this is one truly interesting thread! I've learned more about oil than I could have ever imagined. Up to this point, I have just used what my shop recommends... K&N filter and Mobil 1.


'06 TBA - Black, AI and Snorkel removed, K&N Drop In, Gutted Stock Pipes, 145/42, 2 turns out.
Re: Best oil filter/oil
lylesdo #119056 12/26/2006 8:56 PM
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I , for one, have found that the non OEM filters are more prone to leakage than the OEM filters. The OEM filters actually have an O-ring sealing design as opposed to a cheap gasket sealing surface that most of the non OEM sport.

For whatever reason I had lots of problems with minor nagging leaks with the non OEM. I was doing everything that was advised by all the experts/ lubed the gasket tightened the filter just right ..not too tight all leaked except that OEM filter

I'll stick with the OEM in my case.


"Proud to be an Infidel" ... "100% pure American Jingoist"

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