Pat's instructions are pretty darn good, but here's a few extra tips when changing your pads, front or rear....
1. With the caliper off the rotor and the old pads removed, clean all the old brake dust, small rocks, misguided insects, etc. out of the caliper with a spray brake cleaner. Make sure you aim it carefully and just liberally douse the caliper with it. Cover the wheel and fender etc., if you think you might get some splash or overspray.
1a. If you have the Triumph chrome caliper covers, you may need to tap the retaining pins out using a drift and a hammer. "TAP" is the operative word here...
2. After removing the reservoir cover and sucking half the old fluid out, use a c-clamp and one of the old pads and slowly push the pistons back into the caliper. As Pat mentions, keep an eye on the reservoir and crank slowly on the c-clamp so you don't have brake fluid shooting out of the reservoir all over everything. When the pistons are in all the way, suck some more fluid out of the reservoir and replace it with new. Doing this you will essentially change your brake fluid with out having to bleed the brakes. Yeah, there will still be some dirty fluid in there, but there is when you bleed the brakes also. Don't sweat it. By using the c-clamp, you are giving yourself the maximum clearance between the new pads and the rotor, and the caliper should go on a lot easier.
3. Put a very light coating of high temp brake grease on the edge of the pistons where they contact the back of the pad, and also on the pad retaining pins. This can help prevent noises and also ease disassembly next time.
And, as has been mentioned here before, the stock rear brakes seem to wear out faster than the fronts, so keep an eye on them......
