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New Triumph Wiring Schematic by KOOLWAV, on Flickr

Order some new "Frisco'd" bars from Road 6 and some other doo-dads. Time to re-wire again since I will have everything off. The above is a stripped down wiring diagram. The following has been removed:

-Front Brake Switch (do you ever use the front brake without the rear" What's the point?)
-Carb Heaters (I know....everyone has an opinion on these but I've been running without them for 3 years....no problems)
-Clutch Switch (If the kickstand is down, you have to be in Neutral to start. If the kickstand is up, you can start in gear...good enough)
-All of the dash stuff is gone (no idiot lights, speedo hookup, etc)
-All of the alarm crap.

Much easier to wire and get's rid of mile of un-needed wiring. Feel free to shoot me any particular questions....I love talking bikes!

i always use my front break without the rear, unless i need to stop in a real hurry anyways. But its always good to ditch a bunch of wires if a person can.

I wish I saw this a few days ago. Im what we call" balls deep " in my rewire now.

No carb heaters no safety switches, no blinkers, no nuttn' haha

This link might help....It shows the pin-outs for the CDIs.

http://www.triumphtwinpower.com/triumph-twin-igniter-info.php

I left the Kickstand and Neutral safety switches intact. That way I can't inadvertently turn the bike over when it's in gear...the only way it can start in gear is if the kickstand is up (assumes I am sitting in the seat and smart enough to pull in the clutch)....lol.

This is my second go around on the wiring. Last time I put a whole bunch of connectors in the harness so I could remove it from the bike...this time around, the only connectors will be for the taillight/blinkers (so I can remove the fender) and the switches from the bars (so I can swap out bars).

Good luck...

Made a small change. I picked up some dual filament turn signals. Will wire both the front and rear as running lights using the power from the Horn circuit.

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On that pin out thing, what's up with the 4 coil wires? Thought there was only two from the cdi and the other two came off of key on +?

And what did you do with the 5th regulator wire ?

Got the three in, ground and pos out then there's another black and blue.

Okay...one last change...lol

I didn't like the idea of the running lights being on all the time and didn't want to go through the hassle of wiring them into the Changeover Relay, so I went another route. I will install a toggle switch on the back of the Headlight shell to turn the High Beams on/off (always liked that look anyway) and will use the "old" Hi-Beam switch on the handle bars as a way to turn the running lights on/off. As an added bunus, it cuts down on the number of wires I will have to snake through the 90 bend on the Frisco bars....cool.

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I like it! I was thinking about removing a ton of unneeded stuff from my wiring harness since it's off the bike while I search for a loose ground wire.

Just a note: in Texas both the front and rear brakes must trip the brake light or it will not pass inspection. there are some funny rules in Texas...you don't have to have turn signals...but if you have a turn signal button...it MUST function, so to remove the signals you have to remove the switch too. :-\

In Canada we have to have running lights if the unit was made with them.

Good diagram but id add the black dots on the connections to differentiate them from just crossing wires.
And you where right on about the carb heater. I can now wire a carb america in my sleep hahaha.

^^. +1 what Wade said. I only ever use 1 brake when stopped. Sometimes the right foot is down for stability, sometimes I need to use my right hand to adjust something while stopped.