Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech New Wiring Harness

I just bought some new kick ****** drag bars. And I want to run all my control wiring through them to clean up the look.

Now being the anal person I am. I'm not going to chop off the old wiring harness, extend the wiring, and stick the old harness back on (but looking at http://members.optusnet.com.au/~matt_l/bar-wiring.htm, it looks easy enough ).

So the question is, what is the connector part of the harness called (make, model, etc.) so I can look it up in a catalog to get a new one?

Not sure of the part # but just remember the control end is all soldered to the switches ect so to run a "new" harness you will need to de-solder everything and re-connect. When I did mine I thought the same thing but ended up extending the original

Hi chuck,

I wrote that bar wiring article on Matt's site.

The problems I ran into were:
- No source for our wiring and had to go with an aftermarket company and different wires
- As Rob said, the control sides are soldered in and even though I have soldered for about 35 years, I did not want to disassemble the controls, de-solder, and re-solder
- The connector blocks pins and sockets were difficult to impossible to remove. I own almost every extractor tool made and none of them would get every one out. I looked in all my elctronic resource catalogs trying to find something close to no avail

The final decision to lengthen was made due to time and effort. Just too much of both to justify the work.

Good soldering and heat shrinking all joints have made my installation trouble free for well over a year now. Been through some extremely heavy rain too!

However, if you can find the proper extractor tool and your bars are shorter than stock, you might be able to get away with running your stock wires through the bars with no modification. Good luck to you!!

so something like this won't work? Thought I found my answer.

extractor

All I would say is possibly.

Pins and sockets typically have two to four 'barbs' that when fully inserted into the appropriate block will catch on a shoulder for retension. Extraction tools compress the barbs and the better ones have a plunger to assist the pin/socket out of the connector instead of pulling on the wire.

The problem is that those tools do 16-22ga or 14-16ga. Either one, that's a big spread so there will be slop which may or may not compress the barbs enough to cleanly remove the wire. I have extractors (with plungers) for EACH wire gauge and even with them, I ran into about a dozen all told that would not extract. I did not want to force it. Another issue with extracting pins/sockets is you lose some of the spring of those barbs.

I said screw it.

I do not want to discourage you from trying. For $7 apiece, I'd get both of them and see what happens. Shoot, you may get ALL of them out on the first shot!

No matter what you do, I can't stress enough about writing down color codes / pin/socket location as you progress.

If you already know about all this, never mind!

Further to Phil's stressing the point about colour codes etc (which tho I've not yet done the internal wiring myself I know from many other projects is VITAL), you may find it difficult and unreasonably expensive to find enough wiring of various colours to even come close to having a seperate colour for each wire (even if they're not matching colours with the OEM wiring) however a simple and cheap solution is to head out to your local car wreckers (or whatever they're called where you are) and find a couple of feet of wiring harness out of a dead car there. Chances are that you'll get it for nothing, and you'll have more individual colour combinations than you need for the handlebars.

Matt

I think i'm just going to say "screw it" and perform the extension just like your article says.

That's what I did.

Hey Phil, you wrote that up? Which thing did I write up? Or did I just proof read your wiring write up? Maybe that was it...

OK cool. I remember being involved.... Maybe I need to better ventilate my garage when heat shrinking