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Steering lock removal?
#492966 06/16/2012 5:51 AM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
robj Offline OP
Greenhorn
OP Offline
Greenhorn
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
Looking for some ideas. The new steering lock arrived, and did not have a new rivet or directions. Before I pull out the drills, does anyone have experience in removing the rivet on the coverplate of the lock? The factory one has a very hard mushroom head and looks like it will be a problem to drill. Any better way to get these out? The dealer had never seen a core out of the bike and only said to try to drill it out. There has to be a better method for removing the pin
Thanks

Re: Steering lock removal?
robj #492967 06/16/2012 9:37 PM
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
robj Offline OP
Greenhorn
OP Offline
Greenhorn
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 30
For anyone who has to replace their steering column lock, this is the process that worked for me.

The dealer did not have any cores in the US and it took about 6 weeks for a new cylinder to ship from GB. The replacement cost about 25.00 and the process took about an hour, but much of that was deciding how to proceed. If I had to do again it would likely only be about 15 m. If you’re not comfortable with drilling out the parts a locksmith might be able to make a key. The dealer could not without an original key or the key codes. The cores are not marked with key numbers.

When you order the replacement core order at least one of the cover plate pins (rivet), the lock does not come with a replacement and they cannot be reused. I was able to find some at a True Value, but they are an odd part and you may not be as lucky.

The cover plate has to come off for the lock to come out. This requires removing the pin mentioned above. They are press fit in the collar and are designed to be difficult to remove. It might be possible to pry on the cover and dislodge the pin, but I don’t recommend this as the cover is soft and is more likely to bend or break.

1. Cover the surrounding are to protect the bike from metal chips.
2. Using a Dremel or file flatten the round top so you can center punch for a drill operation.
3. Drill into the center of the pin with a 2mm or smaller bit. The pin shaft is about 3/16 so stay smaller than that to avoid damage.
4. Using a spiral easy out and a tap handle, start the easy out and break the pin loose rotating counter clockwise.
5. Once the pin is free to rotate pull it free. A square easy out will not work, because you have to pull while turning. The spiral flutes & tap handle allows enough purchase to pull on the easy out.
6. To remove the core you need a working key and to rotate the core counter clockwise. (if you having a working key your likely not doing this job)
7. Without a key you will have to drill out the pins and the retaining screw. Drill a small hole into the center of the key slot, working up in size to the final 3/8 bit that is the same size as the core.
8. The lock cylinder to backed up with a steel slug that is part of the lock, so drill until you hit that on the old lock. The core is brass so it is easy to feel when the drill breaks though and hits the steel.
9. If the lock will not come out try jiggling it a bit. Part of the set screw may lodge in it’s track.
10. Remove the spring from the old lock slug and install the spring and new core in the bike.
11. Install the new core utilizing the new key
12. Install the pin and cover plate by driving the pin into the frame with a small hammer.
13. Don’t loose the new keys


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