Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Cush Drive

While I've got the rear wheel off replacing the tire, I'm a-wondering if I should go ahead and replace the cush drive. I'm at a bit less than 13K. And if'n I go this route, would the TBS model really be that much better, and how much harder is it to get it properly placed?

I've heard nothing but good news for the TBS install.

I for one inserted equal pieces of a belt on the flat side of every section of the original cush drive over 10,000 kms ago with no problems. Tightened my final drive right up. The only slack I have is in the chain which is normal.

It's a noticeable difference, and for the better. I would replace it if I were in your place.

I don't get it. I did replace mine, with the TBS part, on my 4th or 5th rear tire and/or chain change. Really didn't know why, other than it sounded like the thing to do from others here.

I have my tires changed at a small local independent shop that works on mostly Jap bikes, and older ones at that. Clean shop, has good, steady business, been in business 20 years, with the owner, and two mechanics. I trust them, and they take care of me.

They thought I was crazy for changing it, and could not fault my stock rubber before the change, or after we took it out. And I never could tell a bit of difference. Maybe there was some slack in there, and nobody ever showed me, but I never once thought anything was wrong before I changed it.

That might be one of the less effective or noticeable "upgrades" I've done.

I still have the one that came with my bike and have almost 30,000 on it.

Cush Drive Check: With your back wheel on the ground (bike on side stand) try moving rear sprocket back and forth - if there is any significant play, you definitely need a new rubber. My '05 SM was making terrible metallic clashing noises upon acceleration at 21, 000 mi. I thought my clutch or transmission was self-destructing!

I replaced my cush at 20K svc with the TBS and it tightened up the rear wheel big time.

The biggest difference I noticed was how easy it was to find neutral from standing still. You know, you're in first gear and go to put it in neutral and it goes into second. Annoying when it happens a couple of times.

Not with the TBS. Smooth as. I did it myself too and if you have a rubber hammer it's tight but not hard to squeeze in.

Trust those who have already done it, it is worth the effort and the little bit of extra cash.

My stocker lasted into the 40k's with innertube shims. Won't ever do that again...

Explain what cush drive is and why it's there?

Hi Charles,

I did a quick google search and found this

We've been talking about the TBS cush drives for some years now so just keep in mind, the majority of stuff we talk about has already been mentioned in past threads.

What I'm getting at is, you'll find if you do a quick search yourself, you'll generally be able to find the answer to most questions and if not, then ask us here.

Anyway, if you haven't already, just scroll down and you'll see part no 15. Yes, it's an odd looking rubber part that fits inside the hub.

As to your question why is it there? Well I could bumble my way round an answer but I believe it's design allows some give in the wheel when taking off and acceleration etc. I'm only having a stab at it but maybe one of our more technical members can give a better answer than me, or perhaps it was already asked in the thread I included.

I have just replaced mine with the TBS model and It is definately worth it. I am not a mechanic and was pondering whether to try and do this but I was amazed at how simple it was. I removed the rear wheel and while the wheel was on the garage floor i tried moving the hub. I'm guessing that i had almost 10mm of play in the hub.
I then removed the hub from the wheel and took out the old cush rubber and installed the new cush rubber the same way as the old one came out. It was a very neat fit and there is no play in the hub whatsoever. I took the bike for a ride and you cannot believe the difference. The gear changes were so much smoother and more direct.
Strangely though when I looked at the old rubber I cannot see any wear marks on it after 15000kms.
All the same I am very happy with the new cush rubber and can recommend you do it. part no. I used was T2012211
I took some pics and will add later.

Derek

The innertubes he used were really nylon stockings..... Too slippery to stay in place....