 getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42 |
I'm ready to paint but I have a couple of questions,can I just scuff the existing paint and repaint or should I primer then repaint? Never done this before but I figure I can't screw it up so badly it couldn't be fixed by someone who knows what they are doing.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,164 Likes: 1
Should be Riding
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Should be Riding
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 12,164 Likes: 1 |
Unless you have bare metal showing you don't need to primer. But don't just scuff the existing paint, wet sand with 400 then 1000.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825
"Lighten up, Francis."
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"Lighten up, Francis."
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825 |
I think for adhesion you want just 400 grit wet. 1000-1200 is for wet sanding (then buffing) the clear coat afterwards.
If you break through the clear, paint and primer down to bare metal, then you'll want to use some primer-sealer.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,212
Oil Expert
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Oil Expert
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,212 |
yup as noted just get the clear off but leave the paint even a 800 should do the trick for you and not cut to deep, look for the white residue when its gone so is the clear, lay a light mist of your first coat let it dry then another, then i would sand lightly again with a light 800 or 1000 wet let dry and finish your coat then clear.
Last edited by edmspeedmaster; 03/15/2012 11:17 PM.
2007 Speedmaster and miss it!
2013 T-Bird Storm and Luvin it!
Catching a yellow jacket in your shirt at 70 mph can double your vocabulary
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 558
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 558 |
Exactly, just need to get the clear off and get it smooth then paint away. Don't forget a tack cloth to wipe it off after sanding.
2008 Speedy, AI removed, DIY airbox destruction with K&N filters, spectres, re-jetted and "custom" rattle can paint job.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825
"Lighten up, Francis."
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"Lighten up, Francis."
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825 |
Degreaser as well. Finger prints are a killer.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42 |
The guy at the supply house sold me scuff pads and said to use those to dull the finish then go ahead and paint. Are those an alternative to sanding or in addition to sanding?
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 184 |
Just finishing painting the rear fender. Sanded with 400 grit, painted, clear coated, then sanded with 1000 grit and put a final coat of clear coat on. Turned out looking like it came out of a body shop. The sanding with 1000 before the last coat really does the trick, may have to give the tank a scuff and a squirt of clear.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825
"Lighten up, Francis."
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"Lighten up, Francis."
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 18,825 |
I've used scuff pads (basically Scotchbrite) to rough up plastic parts (for example, the underside of the front fender) and for hard parts like brackets. I don't recall using them on the top surface of a sheetmetal part. I've always wet sanded those with 400. In 2002 when I had my original tins stripped, my buddy spray on a couple coats of primer-filler and I wet sanded them like that, then he did the sealer, paint and clear. Yes, I'm just a sanding monkey.  Generally speaking I'd go with what the paint supply dude says. At the very least then you have someone to throttle if it goes wrong.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 853
3/4 Throttle
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3/4 Throttle
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 853 |
The three rules of painting:
1. Perpetration 2. See rule 1 3. See rules 1 & 2
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 203
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 203 |
If you're wetsanding with 400 and then painting directly on top, make sure you get quality sandpaper or seal the surface before painting. Or get 600 grit paper. I've seen the sanding scratches come back through if the old paint is just sanded w/ cheap 400 and painted over.
I've always washed the parts, cleaned with a degreaser, then started the sanding. I finish-sand with 600 before painting.
Good luck. Pics when finished.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 42 |
thanks for all the help, i'll get pictures up when its done
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 853
3/4 Throttle
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3/4 Throttle
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 853 |
Did you get gas resistant clear coat? I think this is where I got mine...http://www.repaintsupply.com/default.cfm
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 203
Adjunct
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Adjunct
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 203 |
A "gas resistant" clear coat isn't necessary and, as far as products for normal automotive refinish is concerned, doesn't exist.
If a regular quality 2 component clearcoat is properly catalyzed, it should withstand quite a bit of abuse or other regular automotive fluids without showing any signs of issues.
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,284
Learned Hand
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Learned Hand
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,284 |
What SdKimo meant, I'm sure, is did you use 2 part poly clear coat, which is essentially gas resistant. I know that he's done his share of work. I like to use 2 part poly urethane sandable primer/sealer, especially on tanks, just to add one more layer of protection against fuel, but I've had great luck just scuffing and squirting color and 2 part clear in a pinch. Can't wait to see some pix! 
Strangler
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 Re: getting ready to paint-need help
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,212
Oil Expert
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Oil Expert
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 2,212 |
two part clear is a must for any paint job if you want it to hold up, its a bit pricey at about 30 bucks a can here in Canada anyways and the shelf live is i think two days after you open the bottom seal, but the finish is much much nicer, i just finished re-doing a front air dam for my bike that turned out pretty nice, i might still 3m it though to prevent to much rock chips from the front tire.
2007 Speedmaster and miss it!
2013 T-Bird Storm and Luvin it!
Catching a yellow jacket in your shirt at 70 mph can double your vocabulary
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