Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Modifying Speedmaster / America Ignitors

In the old forums (before they were archived) I'd caught vague reference to somebody in Northern Europe who was able to modify the Stock ignitor to either a) raise the RPM limit or b) advance / retard the ignition timing curve or c) both. Does anybody know of someone stateside who is doing this or can do this?? My local performance source (D&D Cycles, Pensacola, FL) has one modified ignitor for use on a custom racer they're building, but does not have a source that can do volume business. I know that power commanders, dynateks, and tuneboys really aren't offered for us, but it'd be nice if that capability existed in the States. Cheers anyhoo.

You'r thinking about Jojje in Sweden. You can reach him through his website: Turbo-Jojje
Hope this helps!

IIRC, but I could be wrong, Jojje has has said that the Speedmaster rev limiter is at something like 7,900 or 8,000 rpm from the factory. Now your tach needle isn't necessarily going to reflect that, but that's what Jojje says it reads out as on his computer, and the results from dyno testing of some of our members.

Whichever way my sometimes faulty memory might end up on this subject, my point is you might want to ask him about this before you send off your black box. Because IMO, if we are getting 8,000 rpm out of our Speedmasters, I don't see any need for getting anymore out of it unless you've thrown in some Wiseco forged pistons. I wouldn't want to take my stock motor above 8,500 rpm, but that's just me. Now if you're at 7,400 rpm like on an America or regular Bonnie, then a 1,000 rpm boost might be justified.

Now all this is just my opinion: I don't want to take any chances on the possibility of decreasing the reliability of my bike, not to mention voiding the warranty with raising the rev limiter. OTOH, I don't criticize people for doing whatever they want to the bikes they own. So if you still want to get it done, more power to you. Just make sure you report back here with the results, because it always makes for an interesting read.

Yes Jojje had indicated a 8,000 RPM reading at the ECU...

Thought so Greg, but wasn't sure. Maybe I'm not as deep into CRS disease as I thought.

Fully agree with staying on the conservative side of rev limit / ignition timing, especially since I have over a year on my factory warranty. 8500 would also be my limit, unless someone starts offering higher pressure valve springs to complement. My primary interest was more with squeezing a coupla more degrees of timing advance to give the ignition a slightly more aggressive burn, BUT within the realm of keeping my Speedmaster as the non-detonating, 89 Octane burning, riding 100 miles-a-week special. My Speedmaster already has Stage 1 cams, CRS 35mm carbs, reverse megaphone exhaust, K&N Air filters, and AI removed, now just want to concentrate on subtle things (ie timing, billet intake manifolds, iridium spark plugs) to give me more performance without having to fork out close to $1G to buy and have installed, a big bore kit, plus spend another $1G to have the head sent off for port and polishing. On the other hand (evil) raising my RPM limit would give me the flexibility to go up a tooth or two on my rear sprocket and give my bike a little more grunt, without loosing top end speed (so evil)

What are the thoughts??

BTW, thanks to the Gent that posted the link for the European guy up yonder :-)

The Billet Intakes will not fit your bike, they bring the carbs up too high and more forward toward the backbone of the bike, Ive already tried, tried, tried, sent them back. Also -no performance gains really, just Bling!!

Don't know about the timing curve, but the Speedmasters do have a higher rev limit. I've e-mailed Jojje asking him to post to this thread. It'd be nice to have his knowledge archived here. Also, I think he charges something like $200 to modify the rev limiter.

You're right about black boxes costing an arm and a leg from the dealer. I've never seen one on ebay and I look there on a regular basis. I think your best bet is still to seek out the Wizard of Sweden.

Hmmm. $200 to change the limiter, $4000 to stick all those little piece back in the engine. PRICELESS!

There is a guy out of Akron parting out a speedy...you may be able to get an ignitor off of him...

http://stores.ebay.com/manuelmotorcycles

Thanks for all the input so far,

Have been in contact with the Gent in Sweden, he no longer does business with the U.S.A. Apparently, his liability insurance does not cover business dealings with the U.S. so his legal representative has urged him to drop that line. He did say he normally charges about $219 or so for the modification. The dealership that I bought my Speedmaster from (D&D, Pensacola, FL) was dealing with some electronics guru in England for their ignitor, but last time I checked, they still only had just the one for their shop racebike. That may open up to volume in the future, but that means SOL for now. Oh well. Gusser, you say you tried the billet intake manifolds, may I ask, were you still using stock CVK carburetors, or were using another kind?? I do appreciate the notice though.

Gusser, I see that you have tried mounting the billet intakes and not had to much luck by the sound of it. I just forked over the 200 bucks for a set also. I have not yet tried to install them but to the naked eye it sure looks like the increased angle on the billets compared to the original cast manifolds could definitely cause me problems. From the sound of your post I would be better off not wasting my time trying to fit them. Maybe the adds for the billet intakes should not state that they are just a bolt on application for the BA and Speedmaster. Your comments would be greatly appreciated.

has anyone got the part number for a speedy igniter i facy trying it on my america to see the difference,

It does make a difference. My dealer installed the Speedmaster ignitor in B/A when the B/A ignitor had a recall.

this guy on ebay is selling a speedmaster engine, maybe he will be parting out the whole bike and has an igniter to sell.... web page

All, have had a very informative email conversation with Jojje in Sweden, apparently he machined a bracket that allowed him to physically relocated the magnetic timing pick-up inside the side cover; without actually modifying the ignitor, this relocation allowed him to arbitrarily advance or retard the factory timing curve. He actually did have pictures of this on his website, but through my lack of understanding of what I was looking at, I wasn't able to piece that useful tidbit together. He told me that once he figured out how to electronically modify the ignitor, he stopped using the mount. Apparently moving the pick-up counter-clockwise about an inch equated to advancing the entire advance curve about 3-4 degrees. Please refer to the pic links for a better representation:

http://www.stabbarps-auto.com/images/ign2.jpg

http://www.stabbarps-auto.com/images/ign3.jpg

So that's the latest scoop, he was having problems gaining access to this forum, I told him that his input into performance would be greatly welcomed.

Taz,
I believe the price on the ignitor is around $400US+. Ow, Kind of pricey to "try". Maybe just have jojje do yours? Much cheaper.

I contacted the guy that gregzilla referred to and he said the ignition module would be up for $170. Didn't say when....

http://stores.ebay.com/manuelmotorcycles

""All, have had a very informative email conversation with Jojje in Sweden, apparently he machined a bracket that allowed him to physically relocated the magnetic timing pick-up inside the side cover; without actually modifying the ignitor, this relocation allowed him to arbitrarily advance or retard the factory timing curve. He actually did have pictures of this on his website, but through my lack of understanding of what I was looking at, I wasn't able to piece that useful tidbit together. He told me that once he figured out how to electronically modify the ignitor, he stopped using the mount. Apparently moving the pick-up counter-clockwise about an inch equated to advancing the entire advance curve about 3-4 degrees. Please refer to the pic links for a better representation:

http://www.stabbarps-auto.com/images/ign2.jpg

http://www.stabbarps-auto.com/images/ign3.jpg

So that's the latest scoop, he was having problems gaining access to this forum, I told him that his input into performance would be greatly welcomed. ""



If somebody, more knowledgeable than myself, could perfect that...that would be the hot/cheap set up!