 diode
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Joined: Feb 2006
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hi does anyone know about the diode, thats in the wireing harness above the cams, i have unwrapped it and its a three pronged diode that only allows current to flow one way triumph do not sell a part , apparently they want you to buy the whole harness, my bike wont spark tried everything, i need to know what voltage reading i should get from this, all the three wires are black and white the middle one being earth, one side i am getting 12.98, other 4.76 , is this working correctly or should both sides be 12 .98 , i dont thing its a resistor so this could be my problem, any help appreciated 
lowered 2 in stretched front ,widened front forks, aubergine black pearl paint 40 ford rear light standard exhaust all baffels removed, pods, 155 main, 45 pilot, thruxton needle, 16 tooth sprocket procom ignitor set to no 5
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Re: diode
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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Joined: Jan 2010
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The diode pack has no effect on the Igniter operation - only the 'start' interlock
The starter is interlocked to EITHER the 'Neutral' signal, or the combo of SideStand & Clutch Switches if in gear.
The Igniter is interlocked to EITHER Neutral OR SideStand switch - if either of these is present, there is no interlock on Igniter
or conversely - to be interlocked, the bike must be in gear with side-stand in down position.
If you have neutral light, unlikely your igniter is being interlocked.
If your starter operates under either condition (bike in Neutral or if in gear, side-stand up plus clutch lever pulled) then there is nothing wrong with diode assembly
The voltage on each of the diode cathodes (the non-common terminal)will be 'zero' with respect to battery negative when the neutral switch is made (the one the Black/White is connected to) and the combination of clutch switch and side-stand made for the other (also Black/Pink wire, but the one that is connected to the clutch switch)
Either one of these will give ~ 0.7V on the common anode connection (the one Black/Pink is connected to) when those switches are applied which goes to the starter relay
Again, diode pack itself has no impact on the Igniter interlock.
But you MUST have Neutral signal OR SideStand up for Igniter to work.
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Re: diode
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 223
Adjunct
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OP
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thanks , i think i understand, if the diode was faulty it wouldnt allow the bike to crank over? with my bike in neutral, side stand down , i do not get any volts at clutch switch, when i put the side stand up i get 4.76 volts at black n red wire on clutch switch, the when i pull in clutch lever, i get 4.76 volts at both sides of switch ;IE black n red and black, is this right , thanks for your help
lowered 2 in stretched front ,widened front forks, aubergine black pearl paint 40 ford rear light standard exhaust all baffels removed, pods, 155 main, 45 pilot, thruxton needle, 16 tooth sprocket procom ignitor set to no 5
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Re: diode
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Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 223
Adjunct
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OP
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Posts: 223 |
running out of things to check now, would a faulty rectifier. cause insufficent volts to fire the coils, i have read that the procom units like i have. needs a good steady volts or can not run or runs badly? my procom is only 9 month old, never had a problem , took it to a dealer and he put it on a t100 and it ran straight away, so i think the no spark isnt the ignitor, also with ignition on briefly touched the neg side of coil to earth and it sparked at plug both sides ,
lowered 2 in stretched front ,widened front forks, aubergine black pearl paint 40 ford rear light standard exhaust all baffels removed, pods, 155 main, 45 pilot, thruxton needle, 16 tooth sprocket procom ignitor set to no 5
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Re: diode
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75 |
Black/Red is off the side-stand switch - you need to raise it to get 'zero' on that line. If you are getting 4.7V, it says the switch is not making the connection to the ground wire.
Check on the switch itself - the black wire should be connected to battery -ve. The same line that supplies that black to the side-stand switch also is the 'ground' supply for the Igniter so make sure that is good.
However as long as the Neutral signal is good, the problem with the side-stand switch would not manifest itself until you go to select a gear.
Put your bike in Neutral.
Disconnect battery
Disconnect Igniter.
Raise side-stand
Measure resistance from the battery negative cable (or engine ground) to the Igniter connector plug
- pin 1, (Main Ground) - Black Wire
- pin 9, (SideStand Switch) - Black/Red Wire
- pin 10, (Neutral Switch) - Black/White Wire
All should measure close to zero ohms (short) to the ground.
If you put side-stand down, pin 9 will go open circuit
If you click into gear, pin 10 will go open
Pin 1 should remain short to ground.
If any of these three is not measuring short to ground (when in the appropriate position) need to investigate that cause further.
Last edited by DEcosse; 04/19/2011 9:41 PM.
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Re: diode
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75 |
Quote:
running out of things to check now, would a faulty rectifier. cause insufficent volts to fire the coils, ...
That's a negative - you don't even need the Rectifier/Regulator connected for bike to run - as long as battery is in good shape, it will start & run.
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Re: diode
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12,964
Stickman Yogi
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Stickman Yogi
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12,964 |
If I may just intervene for a sec here... pardon my ignorance but, exactly where is this diode pack and what's it for?
Live to love, love to live.
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Re: diode
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 75
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Joined: Jan 2010
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Quote:
.... exactly where is this diode pack and what's it for?
The diode pack is buried in the main harness; it's function is per the wiring schematic below to interlock the starter for safety requirements, so that it is not possible for the starter to operate when the bike is in gear, without the side-stand being up and the clutch lever pulled
i.e. it is not possible for the bike to inadvertantly lurch forward by the starter action.
The Starter relay actually has a dual function - it serves as both a 'gateway' between the 'start' signal to the starter solenoid, but also cuts power to the headlights during the period the starter is being operated.
The positive (+12V) 'control' signal to energize the relay comes directly from the starter button via the White/Red wire to pin 6;
however the other terminal of the coil (via the Black/Pink on pin 4) has to be at 'ground' potential in order for the relay to turn on.
That signal comes from the 'Diode Pack' which you can consider as a Logic 'OR' gate.
The two inputs to this 'OR' gate are from the Neutral Switch to one diode, or from the combination of the Clutch Switch in series with the Side-Stand Switch on the other.
Now - an 'OR' function means that if EITHER OR BOTH inputs are at 'Ground' potential, then the output will be also.
Conversely, the only time the output will NOT be 'ground' is when BOTH inputs are NOT Ground.
So this satisfies the saftey requirement that says to operate the starter either
a) The transmission must be in Neutral
OR
b) The Side-Stand MUST be 'UP' and also the clutch lever must be pulled
OR
c) Both a) & b)
Hope that helps explain its function
3spirit has a problem where his Igniter does not appear to be providing spark and questioning the application of the Diode Pack in this regard. The Diode Pack itself bears no consequence on the Igniter (only the starter relay) - however the same input signals (Side-Stand & Neutral Switches DO go directly to the Igniter to provide similar interlocks which will inhibit its operation under similar cicumstances. This time Clutch switch not a factor, but if the side-stand is 'down' while the bike is NOT in Neutral, it will inhibit the Igniter. This is a safety feature to prevent riding off with the side-stand down.
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Re: diode
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Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12,964
Stickman Yogi
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Stickman Yogi
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 12,964 |
Thank you very much, Ken. Appreciate you expertise in this area... not that I understand it all but some of it's getting through.
Live to love, love to live.
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