Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods K&N or UNI ?

Guys and Gals. I need to replace my air filter but am undecided as to which filter I should buy from Brent. Could someone make that choice for me.

BikerT

I have a the UNI and I like it. I don't think you can go wrong with either the UNI or the K&N. IMO some folks tend to over oil the UNI which can cause problems with oil being sucked into the carbs. A light even coat is all that's needed. I then dab the inside of the filter with a clean paper shop towel. This will insure that all the excess oil is gone. I've had no issues and the bike performs great. The K&N has a great reputation and allows good airflow.

Air filters are critical to the life and performance of your engine. The more airflow usually means more dirt particles. The dirt particles are not only bad for your carbs but they also make your oil dirty sooner as well. This can eventualy lead to pre-mature engine wear. IMO you have to find a happy medium between performance and filtration. Every test I've seen shows that OEM paper filters offer the best filtration but the worst airflow. UNI is somewhere in the middle and K&N has the best air flow.

I have a UNI with about 300 miles on it. You can have it if you want it. And if the border guards will let it through..

Send me a pm or email with your address.

Just got a UNI as it was also recommended by Specialty Spares to go with their exhausts systems. I got it from Michael at BellaCorse who recommended not oiling the filter at all if you're using it in a TA/SM stock airbox. After I got it I gave him a call back and he reiterated that all their Triumphs have stock airboxes and UNIs and they do not oil them. He said the main purpose of the oil was to keep dirt out where the filter is in a more exposed location. Any thoughts?

Thanks for the quick response. My filter was not shipped with oil, do you have to use the UNI oil or can it be lightly oiled with something readily available? I also forgot to mention that Michael (at BellaCorse) said that in a stock airbox, the risk of oil getting into the carbs is probably greater than any increased dust risk. So, I can see that if oil is used, it should be minimal.

i have the K&N and i did feel a little difference. fits perfect and i would definetly recamend it if you dont do the pod filters(freak)

Frank

K and N

Thanks Grump and you others for the info. I will also pull the 3 snorkels while I'm at it.

BikerT

Quote:

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I have a UNI with about 300 miles on it. You can have it if you want it. And if the border guards will let it through..

Send me a pm or email with your address.

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After installing the UNI and riding a bit, I did notice a difference. Maybe a slight power increase and the bike response seemed quicker. I also had to readjust the idle after installing as it was running almost a 100 rpms higher. I guess this is due to the less restricted air flow. I was suprised as I didn't expect to notice much difference. My airbox (other than the UNI) is stock - just drop it in.

If you install a UNI or KN on a STOCK motor do you need to rejet?

To my knowledge, no. The UNI is exactly the same size as the stock paper filter and drops right in. The foam design allows slightly better air flow. This would probably be most noticeable if you have put on a less restrictive exhaust which makes a much greater difference and, in most cases, requires rejeting to run the best.

I was wondering, when I get my UNI, do I have to rejet and to what size if I have TOR's. I don't know what the size of the jets are now. Should I look or just see how see runs first.

BikerT

BikerT,
Most TBA's come with 120's. My guess with the UNI and TOR's you may want to go to 130 mains. Turn your air screws out to 2.5 to 3.0 turns. The TOR's are more restricted than most but alot less than stock. With UNI you'll be getting better airflow. I think you'll see a big diffeence with the 130's.

Thanks, When I go to work on the carbs, I heard someone say that I should replace the screws with new ones from Brent. Also, what about the pilot jets. Do I have to change these as well if I do change the mains. All you guys are a great help.

BikerT

Always do one thing at a time on the carbs. If you open the carbs and change 2 or 3 things you won't no what change caused the problem. There are many different opinions on the pilot jets. I would stick with the 42's for now if I were you. Pilot jets are used for idle to 1/8 throttle. With the TOR's I think you're better off with 42's.

BikerT, I agree totally with fishercat...i'm running TOR's with a Unifilter (lightly oiled), and snorkels pulled...130 mains with stock pilots (42)...air screws out between 2 1/2 and 3 turns...i replaced the phillips head carb screws with allen head ones from brent while i was at it...a real good idea, as you'll no doubt ruin some of the phillips head ones getting 'em off...seat-of-the-pants feel is definitely more power and improved acceleration, and the plugs look good...she starts quickly and easily, even in cold weather and idles steadily w/o choke when warmed up.

I agree with the prior posts. My dealer installed my Specialty Spares exhausts, removed the AI, and put in the 130 mains. I ran it awhile like that but was having bad deceleration popping even after different adjustments. They THEN installed the 45 pilots that also came with the SS. The popping went away and it has run great ever since. The dealer had done quite a few of these changes and was very big on not going bigger than necessary or upping the pilots unless it proved to be necessary.

Thanks guys. When I go to put these 130's in do I just follow Pat's instuctions.

http://members.bluefrog.com/~pwhitbec/Triumph/carbs0.html

BikerT

I would use Pat's instructions the first time so you can really see what you're doing. It will probably take a couple hours the first time but it will be well worth the effort. If you still have your EPA caps on over the air screws drill into the caps no more than an 1/8 inch with a tiny drill bit. Stick a nail set in the whole an wiggle back and forth. It will start to loosen and then pop off. If you have a later model 2004 or 2005 you will have to get the D tool from Brent. Some guys have made their own D tool from a piece of tubing that they flattened on one side.

Good Luck

I use to have TOR pipes and a Uni filter on my Speedy. When I did the pipes I had the dealer rejet the pipes. He put in 130 jets. It ran good for sure that way.
I've since whiched to D&D's, opened the bottom of the airbox up for more flow, cut away the divider wall from the filter box into the inner box and rejetted to 140. The bike runs like a made machine. Sounds even better. No more sewing machine sound. Now, hell's door opens and the demons scream for forgiveness.

Bigsteve

To Biker T and all Filter Interested TBA owners.
The K&N Filters come pre-oiled and I think the Uni's do too. DO Not oil them on initial installation. They will be OK until your next Scheduled Eng. oil change then you just check the Air filter for dirt. The K&N and the Uni require little or no maintenance. If you over oil them you have defeated the purpose of the "No Maintenance Filter". I put a K&N in my TBA it was Pre-oiled and it collects dust and dirt just like it is suppossed too. You won't need to buy the oil kit until you have put at least 6000 miles on the filters and then you might not even need it then. This is why K&N calls their filter the Million mile filter. Read the fine print guys. If it ain't broke don't fix it! I have been an aircraft mechanic for 30 years, I have seen a lot of dumb things in maintenance! I use K&N on my Truck(97 F-150), my wife's 03 Jeep Liberty and now my 05 TBA. I hope this didn't offend anybody but I hate to see people do work they don't have too. UNI and K&N do not require a lot of maintenance, just go ride!! That is of course if your not living in the Cold states of the north, like me! Keep riding guys and gals don't fix unless it's really broke.
Sixmil

Ok, I'm convinced. My new UNI didn't seem pre-oiled as it didn't feel or smell like oil, but Michael of BellaCorse.com said they use them just like they are especially in stock Triumph airboxes. So, I dropped it in. Immediately had to adjust the idle, but it seems quicker and more responsive.

Thanks guys. I thought this post had run down. Now that I have rejetted. I have Tor's. 130 mains stock pilots set by Pat's guide, snorkels out, UNI in.

I took the bike for a ride today. -3 out. The bike actually ran like crap at first but seeing that everything was apart I expected that would happen. A lot of farting through the air filter. The bike ran a lot better after a
bit.

So now it running strong. A bit of popping but very minimal, more than before. It does however have a slow throttle response. What I mean by this is when I am driving and then let off on the gas with the clutch in but still moving, the blimps response is slow and sometimes farts up through the intake. Maybe this is normal. It blimps ok at idle when I am stopped.

I just am not sure if I need to tweak or just leave it for warmer weather.

thanks
BikerT