 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28 |
Hey guys/gals, Need some help here. I have finally decided to start on my 76 Bonneville project bike. I rescued her from a basement in Maine and brought her down to the desert in Arizona. I've sent the engine to a brit bike guy to do the hard work of tearing down the engine and rebuilding it. Now I have to get to work on the frame. The frame is in good condition. Doesn't look like it has ever been dropped but due to the decade of basement storage it has quite a bit of surface rust. From what I can tell the frame and swingarm are solid. Rust should come off easy. What are some suggestions for getting it all off. I've heard there are companies that will dip the whole bike in some sort of evil chemical bath which will take it down to bare metal eventually. Sounds expensive though. Also, I understand "aircraft stripper" will remove just about anything from the metal underneath. I'm also concerned that since this is an oil in frame there will be some rust in the reservoir part of the frame. Not sure if I should bother with that part or not. This will not be a trailer queen or show bike. This is a cafe project and I could care less if it's ugly or nasty because that's part of what makes it beautiful to me. It will probably end up with a rattle can finish on the frame bits but I want the frame to at least start out as smooth as possible with ALL of the rust removed. I'm a novice at these bike builds but I'm willing to give it a try. Any ideas would be appreciated.
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,393 Likes: 1
Second Wind
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Second Wind
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 8,393 Likes: 1 |
You can get a paint stripper wheel from Auto Zone that will remove surface rust (Just pop it in a drill and go at it). I think there is also some stuff you use to get rust out of a gas tank at Auto Zone for inside the frame.
I have no faith in human perfectability. I think that human exertion will have no appreciable effect upon humanity. Man is now only more active - not more happy - nor more wise, than he was 6000 years ago.
Edgar Allan Poe
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,028 Likes: 8
New Tires
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New Tires
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,028 Likes: 8 |
Sandblast the frame, tape off and seal relivant areas. Have the frame powdercoated. I doubt there is rust in the oil tube, but a lot of crud. Rinse it out with a solvent prior to sandblasting. Also get a new set of studs, nuts and bottom plate for the oil tube, as you will want to leave the originals on while sandblasting and powder coating.
Plan B, hand sand rust, rattle can prime and paint.
The prep for sand blasting and powder coat is easy, but must be done right. If you decide to go that route I can help.
Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
H. L. Mencken
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 23,194 Likes: 56
Fe Butt
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Fe Butt
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 23,194 Likes: 56 |
If you sand blast be sure to get any sand that gets inside out after you are done. While sand blasting it is hard to keep sand out of anything.
I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains. Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,028 Likes: 8
New Tires
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New Tires
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 7,028 Likes: 8 |
If you prepare an OIF T140V correctly no sand will enter the frame. The only vulnerable areas are the neck, swing arm and OIF tube. Neck, two metal plates or very large fender washers, treaded rod, nuts and intertube for gasket. Swingarm pivots, same as neck. OIF tube, that's why I suggested purchasing a new bottom plate, studs, nuts washers, gasket and filler cap. The originals are to be kept on and destroyed. I used a golf tee for the oil return tube. These will be left on during powder coat, as well as various wood douls and masting tape for mounting holes. You do not want to get powder coat in various mounting holes, it's hard to get out.
Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats.
H. L. Mencken
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,590
Check Pants
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Check Pants
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 5,590 |
Quote:
I have finally decided to start on my 76 Bonneville project bike.
Good luck with your project Ryan,
I have a soft spot for that particular model 
jh
"It's not what I say that's important, it's what you hear" Red Auerbach
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28 |
Thanks for all of the help everyone.
I have been considering adapting a modern sport bike front end to the bonnie to gain the better forks and of course dual discs. I understand that the Bonnie came with dual discs as an option around 1980 or so but I haven't been able to find any parts yet for the right side disc. I thought it might theoretically be easier to just fit up a newer jap bike front end. Anyone know if there is a direct fit front end?
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,284
Learned Hand
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Learned Hand
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,284 |
There probably is as the dimensions are similar. Do you believe that the dual brakes will stop better or are you going for that look?
Strangler
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 Re: 1976 T140 Cafe Project
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Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28
Greenhorn
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OP
Greenhorn
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 28 |
Better braking would be my number one priority. Particularly the fade that comes with repeated heavy braking through the twisties. I'm sure there are large single brake options that I could go with if I didn't find a suitable dual set up but a dual would be the best option IMO. Plus, yes it does look super cool! 
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