Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Accessories Filling forks with fluid from the bottom

Can this be done ? The manual looks like you fill it from the fork cap side. It is a heck of a lot easier to put that fork cap back on by putting it on the floor and putting all your weight on the fork from the wheel side. It looks like you could dump fork oil thru the damper bolt hole !

I will reply as I learn.

This is a big one. When you put the damper back in the fork, use a broom handle to ram it to where it is supposed to be. That really helped in making putting the fork cap back on a heck of a lot easier ... If you don't do that then there will be zero travel in the forks after putting the damper bolt back in ... I guess the damper was sitting to high in the top part of the fork/slide ... After reseating the damper, I could then put the fork caps back on with the forks standing up the correct direction... Man I hope this thing don't leak when I am done ... Just so you know, I am lowering the front so I had to get the damper out. I guess a lot of people just replace the ? main spring. Lowering it requires adding another spring to the damper adding 1 spring = 1 inch lower or 2 springs added = 2 inches lower. I am only doing 1, my back shocks lower the bike 1.5 inches so 1 inch in the front seemed logical.

How do you measure the level from the top of the fork tube for the right amount? With one hand, I easily put the cap back on with the spring/spacer. They aren't under that much pressure.

I have not gotten to that yet. I think I am going to pour the 548 CC into it and be done. That is like 2 1/3 cups ... In each fork if I am understanding the manual. It says 166 mm from the top, that's like 6.5 inches from the top. I guess I will pour the 548 cc into it and then see if that is 6.5 inches. I don't think I will be to concerned with being 100 percent acurate. During my research on how to do fork springs the topic of fluid levels was found. It was kind of stated like it is up to the rider, what they are comfortable with, the feel I guess. Oh yeah, it says the fork should be fully compressed when doing this measurement ... What the heck, I put my gaiters on while puttzing with the forks to ...

You must have lucked out or did the push the damper step. That was my biggest headache, until I figured it out anyway ...

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How do you measure the level from the top of the fork tube for the right amount? With one hand, I easily put the cap back on with the spring/spacer. They aren't under that much pressure.

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This is another big step to NOT forget. Before taking the cap off the top break the bolt holding the damper in. If you don't that damper appears to spin while you are trying to loosen the bolt ...

I bet I can do this next time in about 2 hours...

Filled them compressed to like 6 inches from the top with fluid. Don't know how it rides yet, putting them back on the bike requires a little wedgin on the triple trees, not alot.

I used harley type E fluid, supposed to be 15w ...

I did find some device to allow filling from the bottom by the way. It did not say for Triumph forks. And the forks they were showing had a tap allready on the forks for it.

I've never seen someone have a longer conversation with themself...

Here's another question... if all I need to do is change the fork oil, so I really need to tip them over? Or can I just siphon the fluid out? I do plan on dropping the forks to get at the lower shrouds anyway, but I'd just as soon not have to mess with dumping the fluid all over the place...

From my new experience I would pop the wheel off. Take out the damper bolt from the bottom then take the top caps off and pump the forks into a pan.. Then put the top caps back on and put the damper bolt back. Then take the caps off again and filler up. When there is no juice in there I think the weight of a baby would put the forks in the compressed position. That will do it. Then put the top caps back on again. This can all happen while the forks are on the bike ... But you also want the shrouds off so the forks gotta come out. This can be done alone. Just get a good piece of wood to place on the caps, like a broom handle cut in half, you have to force the forks out the top and the bottom of the triple trees. Then hammer your heart out. Actually, I think I would take two flat blade screw drivers and wedge them just so easily into the compression slots on the triple tree first. Note , I did cut like an inch off the stock spacers, as per Progressive docs. That might and I believe it, makes putting the caps back a bit easier. As far as I can tell or see, the Progressive main springs have a thicker spring coil that is used. I have to think that is why they have you cut an inch off the stock spacer ...

I got the caps back on no prob after putting in the prog. springs, no other changes, straight swap. So I guess the only part of that I'm not familiar with is the samper bolt, but I assume that is up in the forks behind the axle kinda? So basically use that as a drain? That's cool. I think I would like to do the fork oil and shrouds as two separate operations. Make things simpler...

You didn't lower the front did you ?

Nope. Straight spring swap. Never changed fluid either, but everyone says it rides much better with a slightly heavier weight oil, so I figured I would try it. Got about 18K on the bike, time for a change anyway.

Oh yeah, supposedly a 5/8 inch spark plug socket if inverted can be used to hold/tighten the front axle/spindle. I have not put the wheel back on yet ... I also put the forks just a hair higher in the triple trees. I am hoping, hoping, the 1 inch lower from the Progressive kit, and this hair higher placement in the trees will equal my new rear shocks. Which are supposed to lower the back 1.5 inches ...

Oh I know AAAAaaaaallll about takin the wheel off No worries. Just never looked UP under the ends of the forks is all. I was more worried about the dented rim and the stripped out rotor bolt!

What is this stripped out rotor bolt thing ?

Well the front is back on. The rear is not done yet, to tell you the truth I can't see the difference ...

From just lowering the front end 1 inch, plus the smallest amount of the forks higher in the triple trees, I do NOT see a need to swap kick/side stands ... When I get the back shocks on, I will post again ...

I do believe I am done, the front is down and the back is down. It is really hard to see it, not even sure I do. I do not believe I have to change the kick/side stand. It stands a little taller, and yeah on the right hill and the right amount of wind, a big wind, I suppose it could go over. Now I have to wait to ride it, to see if the Progressives in the front really did get rid of that hard braking dive. My camera is in my suit case waiting to depart with me Saturday so I can't post pics... A few weeks and I will ...