Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Exhaust Gunter saw reappears

I tried to post this earlier and it must have lost in cyber-space. after much hassel the gunter saw is once again available. The new model is 30" long.More than long enough to reach the third baffle.Same rules apply, first come first serve I'll pay the cost of shipping just be prepared to pay the shipping to the next guy. This model is an extended 1 1/2'' and works sweet. see ya on the road.Mike

Was this the predecessor?

Excellant example

I'll give it a whirl. I'll send a PM with my address.

Thanks!

FriarJohn, can I get dibs on the saw when you are done with it?

No problem.

How's the saw working out for you? Are you going to be forwarding it my way anytime soon?

I'll see what I can do. I'll try not to hold it up much longer.

OK. Just wanted to make sure you didn't forget about me.

Never!

Okay, I need opinions, tips, tricks, whatever. First of all, it's a real bear trying to wrestle (see what I did there?) the drill, the gunter saw and the muffler. The first baffle is still relatively easy, but I can't get the saw over the second baffle tube as the angle from the hole is too sharp. I'm thinking I need a regular hole saw, maybe on a 1' extension to embiggen the hole from the first baffle.

John.....I've debaffled 2 sets of stock slash cut pipes now. After using a hole saw on the first baffle plate, the one at the end of the exhaust, I used a heavy duty 14" screw driver on the second baffle going in. Just went around the outside of the baffle plate and broke the spot wells...no problem here. Then bought a 3 foot piece of 1/2" round steel bar at Home Depot and sharpened one end into what looks like a flat blade screw driver. Did the same thing, just broke the spot welds free on the 3rd baffle in. The problem here were the 2 large nuts on the inside for the hanger bolts. Hard to get behind the one side as the nut hides the weld. Also, had to crumple up the loosened plate as it would't come out past the nut way down there. Made a long coat hanger hook and fished it out. I stopped at 3 baffles out each side this time around as my first effort at all baffles out was too loud for my highway riding. The remaining metal from the first saw cut, was very ragged and uneven, so bought one of those small pinkish grinding stones from Home Depot and removed the remaining metal. Used it in an air drill....quick and easy

I've done a few sets of slash cuts as well. I used a regular bi-metal hole saw, no extensions or anything.
First, wiggle the tube around til it falls out. Then get the largest hole saw that will easily fit in the pipe. When the baffle plate is cut through, don't go in any farther, the mesh lining will get all bent up. Knock out the next baffle, pull it out with stiff wire hook. I used pencil rod (1/4"). I clamped vise grips onto the wire after it was hooked, that gave me something to hammer on to get the baffles past the hanger nuts and the smaller diameter remains of the end baffle. If you want the last baffle out, you can cut it out around the perimeter with a home made long chisel like Shutter described.
The two end ones are in there solidly, the two middle ones will knock loose easily.

The first pipe sucked because of the offset of the baffle tubes. The second baffle in the first pipe was a beeyotch. The second pipe went so easily it practically drilled itself. Two baffles out of each and the saw is going on to curran802.

Just a quick update, the guntersaw is on its way to Vermont.

Found this in a thread here earlier--adding it to aid others in their quest for the gutteral rumble

http://troubadourtriumph.blogspot.com/2008/09/baffles-or-lack-of.html