Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Passenger footpeg relocation

I have an idea for ditching the "clam shell" passenger footpeg mounts on my 05 America and relocating the footpegs to the top bolt hole/frame tab where the "clam shell" mounts - they thread right in! Then I'll re-install the lower bolt with an automotive chrome valve cover grommet. Has anyone done this? Is the frame tab strong enough to handle the load associated with passenger footpegs? My wife is a little gal, but I just want to be sure it will be structerally sound. It looks very clean and my wife is happy with the new position of pegs.

I did that only I used the lower hole so I can put my feet on the pegs as an alternate location.

So did I.

Lots of people have used the lower hole, but you could certainly try the upper one. I think it would be strong enough.

I thought about the lower hole too...but with either one, it seems like you run out of threads and the peg tightens up before it's positioned correctly...any tips?

If you run just the peg into the bottom hole, 3/8" thick nylon washer behind there will allow you to snug it up.

When I did it, I stacked washers behind the pegs so they lined up how I liked them. Takes some experimentation...

I removed my rear pegs and supports. When I tried to re-use the same bolt in the exhaust hanger, it bottomed out. I don't think the bolt is supposed to be tightened down on that rubber grommet. I cut another bolt off to the same length that the stock bolt stuck out the backside of peg support. I want to put my rear pegs in those lower holes, but would they stay if they were tightened down to the rubber?

Using the nylon washer mentioned above, I've been running my passenger pegs in the same spot as the exhaust hangers for over 2 years now. Snugs up in the right spot for them to collapse vertically, and my wife likes the added leg room.

You could also thread another nut on there as a jam nut...

I'd like to do the same with the passenger pegs, do you have to remove the plastic clam shell permenently and what does it look like under there when the clam shell is removed?

It looks fine. The "clamshells" are supposed to look like the old toolboxes. You just unbolt them. I put those little license plate reflectors in the top holes.

Those peg hangers are metal, not plastic. Here's a pic of them taken off with the peg relocated to the exhast attachment point.

And here's a pic of a 1953 Triumph Thunderbird with a somewhat similar look to that area on the bike with the passenger pegs.

Yeah, looks pretty cool - I am going to do mine at the weekend - nice one!

Jan

Also would be the biz with the "bonnie" type sprocket cover rather than the SM/BA ribbed cover...

I am thinking of painting or powder coating my sprocket cover gloss black and then filing or sanding the ribs so the metal would show through. Been watching E-bay for one to experiment on.

Thanks Sal great photo.
Did you leave off the "clam" cover on purpose and can the peg be relocated with it on. I rather like the look?
Larry

I still need to take pics, but I have a chrome bonnie sprocket cover and black speedy peg hangers, much more subtle, kinda blends in.

Yes, EXACTLY like that... ...looks so much better than stock...BTW, what did you use to paint the cover - it looks like a pretty good match to the cases?

Regards

Jan

That's a stock Triumph black cover for their Bonneville model that has the blacked out engine. I got mine from the Delphi Bonneville forum after posting a WTB ad. I think I paid about $50, but you can get a new one from a dealer for about $100 or so. You'll also need to order 4 long bolts.

FYI Brent has nice stainless bolts for both covers...

Hi Derek - do you know what size the long bolts are? They look like M6 but what is the length?

BTW, very nice look you have achieved - I've found a S/H bonneville black sprocket cover here in UK for £14 so here I go...PS how much do you have to remove with the grinder, and from where?

Regards

Jan

Nice price for that sprocket cover. Those are M6x75, and you'll need 4 more(the bottom bolt on the stock cover fits). I went to the dealer and ordered them to match what I already had, but like Benny says, you can get show chrome bolts from Brent.

You'll see when you try to put the sprocket cover on where the material needs to be taken off. It's below the swing arm bolt/lower rear of the cover. Grinding off the sprocket cover is one of those things I don't measure, but it's not much. Just grind some, see if it fits, grind some more...a little at a time until it clears the frame. Maybe a 5 minute job at most, and that's including going back and forth to the bike to see if the cover fits. Afterwards I taped off the front near the ground edge and hit it with some black Rustoleum to ward off rust.

Once you're done, no more George Foreman grill.

I took my cover over to the bike, eye balled about a half inch square to take out of that corner, and zip zip, 1-2 with the dremel cutoff wheel and it was gone. Done.

It's the same thread in all the holes, so you can mount the pegs in either the lower or upper holes. You will need bolts and washers in the lower ones to keep the pipe hangers from working their way off.