Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Exhaust Gutted the Stockers - Finally

I finally got the last (third) baffle out of the two stock pipes. Dog, you were right - there's a BIG difference when that last baffle comes out. Also, I can see daylight through the pipes now. Man, I love the sound, it's got the TORS beat hands down. Unfortunately, it's also much louder, and I think the neighbors are really gonna bitsh. I leave every morning about 6:45, and there's no doubt these babies will wake folks up. I'm thinking about trying a reducer in the open end; maybe I can find a compromise between the harshness of the TORS and the nice low rumble of these pipes.

Ahhh, Heck with the neighbors. You can always get new ones!

I told ya they sound GREAT could try one of those generic drag pipe baffles from J&P in the header where they meet the pipes to take the edge off. I love my gutted stock pipes and have no desire to put anything else on mine.

Here Here all of the above

Dog, I picked up another set of stock pipes today. These are the ones I'll install on the bike for keeps. Before I rip into 'em, I'm wondering about that last baffle. Do you think it's possible to just open it up some, without removing it? What about a long 1/2" drill run the end plate from the reducer? I'm just looking for another way to mellow the sound without going to J&P for drag baffles.

Well what Chevy605 does is drill 3, 1/2" holes around the main hole in the last baffle. They were much to quiet for me but I see no reason not to try it and see what you think. You could try drilling more until you have what you want. Most important thing is to keep some back pressure as long as you do that then just jet for your changes and you are good. If you use the J&P baffles weld a nut to the inside of the bolt hole in them (if they are not alreay made that way, some are some aren't) Then run a bolt through that nut from the inside to to push against the inside of the header to clamp it in place instead of drilling the header to run a bolt through.

Looking in from the reducer cones, each baffle plate in the pipes I worked on yesterday was a solid plate with an offset tube welded in. I assume this means there's a perforated tube attached on the other side of the plate, in the center, and that it exits at a second baffle plate further in. If that's the case, it seems you could drill into the center of the first baffle (the plate nearest the reducer), and that would allow exhaust gasses to go straight through that section.

Anyway, I just went out to the garage to double check everything, and it turns out the two pipes I picked up yesterday aren't the same. Looking in from the reducer with a flashlight, one has a metal baffle plate, the other has a CAT. I'll have to contact the dealer tomorrow to see if they can take care of this for me. Depending on the other sets they have, there's no guarantee that I won't end up with two that have CATs. If so, I'll just have to gut them both completely and use drag baffles.

Dog, are your pipes open all the way through, except for the reducer cones? That's how the first pipes that I modded are set up now, and I think I've lost some low-end torque. Also, I see what looks like a stainless strut across the back of the CATs. Can this be hammered out without damaging the pipes? Do you know how Chevy605 modifies pipes that have CATs (no rear plate to drill)?

Questions, questions.

Mine are straight through you can look in one end and right out the other. I didn't lose any torque that I could feel and my dyno numbers are pretty high. You may have lost some if you didn't jet for the changes as you would be lean now. That first baffle nearest the reducer cone is the one I m,eant that Chevy605 drills the holes in. I have heard of guys taking the cat out by cutting that pin, I have never personally done this so I can't give you any more info than that.

OK, thanks for all the good info. About the drag baffles, I'll probably split the reducer cone and hammer the baffle into that area. That way I can secure the baffle to the pipe and not risk damaging the header. Mounting in the pipe will also using longer baffles that won't fit into the headers.

I'll try to take photos of the upcoming mods in case anyone's interested.