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3/8" Fine Pitch Taiwan Bolt

+ Stuck 3/8" Fine Pitch Nut

+ 1/2" Proto Breaker Bar

+ 18" Craftsman Crescent Wrench

+ Biker Muscle

=

But when you have to buy 2000, or 2,000,000 bolts, the cost savings are truly amazing, would you not agree?

My big Tabby cat can break a Taiwan grade bolt .

Now twistin' a grade 8 , that's impressive .

Speaking of which, if I want to replace some bolts on my bike with stainless ones, where will I get the information about sizes? Specifically, I'm talking about the 'grey' ones in the top of the gearbox/crankcase.

(Sorry for the hijack but it's relevant to the title and doesn't warrant a thread (if you pardon the pun) of its own)

Re: stainless fasteners

Remember that SS nuts and bolts in the 300 series will absolutely gall to each other tighter than an impact weld if fitted without neverseize or some other thread compound, loctite, etc. Once hung three mechanics off a 4' cheater pipe over a 1" breaker bar and could not break loose an 1 1/4 SS pipe flange bolt/nut. Use care selecting the grade of stainless, and try to find some USA made products.

Not sure about stainless to aluminum corrosion, but dissimilar metals can give you a gas pain......

The McMaster-Carr catalog has some excellent info on stainless grades - properties and applications. They may even be online, haven't looked

Disclaimer: No mechanics were harmed in the removal of that nut

Thanks for that, Daniel. I wasn't aware that I could cause myself problems if I chose the wrong stuff. (Story of my life!)

I'll go to a decent fasteners store and seek their advice. I suppose I should really be looking for the same type of material as those bolts holding the cases on. Correct?

Generally the factories research their fastener specs pretty thoroughly, so you shouldn't go wrong strengthwise with their materials. But I take it you want them shiny and aren't sure of the sizes - I have to defer to the experienced lads on this site (and there's lots of them) for that info. I'm sure someone else has done this swap and can help. Maybe Fast Eddie?
Just realised that you were across the Pond, so you may not have a McMaster-Carr in your area. They are a worldwide industrial supply house with a huge inventory, and helpful staff. I thought Liverpool is or was an industrial area, so you should make out ok at a decent supply house. Maybe pop one fastener out (an upper one) and bring it with you for a sample.

once you sus out what you need try this UK site.
http://www.namrick.co.uk/browse.asp?PCID=10

Hi tensile strength on S/S does not compare with original bolts fitted to stress points on bikes, try British standards for bolts for mind boggling info.

wrong choice can be fatal
go carefull bud

I wouldn't use stainless in the place you are thinking because those hold the cases together. I don't know what the difference would be with heat expansion between the OEM and stainless but that could cause a problem as far as the torque spec is concerned to keep proper tension on the bearings. I use stainless in many other applications though.

Am I best just leaving them, then? It's not that I see them often, but, when I do, they just look...out of place. Cheap. Just...wrong!

I may get onto Triumph to see what they say, although it'll probably be the usual "Don't touch it" carp!

Maybe cover them with those chrome or stainless caps they sell to cover HD head bolts or paint them to match the case.

Bellacorse.com sells a set of shiny engine cover bolts that are s/s allen heads, part number BCE-036. Don't know how to setup the link here but maybe someone will help out...