Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods jetting

My dealer in pa wants $80 for jets and $160 to install is this insane or is me.

well considering all 4 jets should cost about $12 to $20 depending where you get them, yes, insane and criminal in my opinion. $160 to install probably isn't too far out of line considering what I have seen for shop labor rates. Still way too much considering how easy it is to do yourself.

where are you located??? maybe someone could help you out

One of the things I learned to accept is that these bikes can definately be an expensive luxury. Don't get me wrong, I love my BA, and it's only my own fault that I'm too cranky and old to want to learn all of the new tech stuff, but I can fix my old trumpet with my eyes closed for very reasonable parts prices. Some of my favorite conversation starters begin with "the headlight ring for this bike is $170." I would hate to have to be the poor man I was twenty years ago and try to own and maintain the newer bikes. Some of my son's friends occasionally pick up an old jap bike for next to nothing, only to find out the parts to get it running make it worth only junk. In the old days(and I know most of you here can relate!), you could pick up an old beater and get it running for way less than a weeks paycheck if you had the mechanical know how or some friends to help you out.

That's about the going rate for a Dynojet kit, however that isn't necessary.

What is the full scope of work, who is going to do it, is a dynotune included, & which dealer is it?

So, just for those of us with no experience, what's involved in jetting a bike? I'm going to have to do it, since I'll be replacing the pipes.

Turn fuel tap to "off". Remove the float bowls - 4 screws each. Remove the main jets, which are akin to a screw with a hole through. Fit new main jets. Replace float bowls. Turn fuel tap to "on". Er.........that's it.

Never had to do any of that, but ok.

Quote:

---

You forgot the part about disconnecting the battery, removing the hoses, pulling the airbox back, removing clamps and rubbers, swinging the carbs down, and swearing and cursing.

---

Not necessary at all, especially if you have changed the float bowl screws into allen ones.

I live about 25 min away from statecollage pa. My dealer is kissell motorsports.They said they could get the pipes and jet it for around $750 to $800 thats with bub pipes.I know I could do it my self my only concern is making sure my bike isnt running lean or rich when im done. Kissells has a dyno and the machanic has the same bike so i would think he knows what hes doing.

Well................depnds on the bike, of course, but for instance on the 865 Bonneville, Triumph supply 115 mains with their TORs, 110 being stock. Gives you an idea. Particularly when most manufacturers suggest you don't need to rejet just for silencers.

Check out the Dinqua jetting calculator. It will save you a small fortune.

The jetting calculator is an excellent place to start but remember that it is a guide and 100% accurate. It will get you in the ballpark though and give you an idea of the variables you need to consider when jetting.

you would need an exhaust gas analyser to check the fuel/air ratio, but more likely than not the dinqua numbers will be "good enough".

rob i sent you a pm

By ball park I meant close if not right on. You can look at the color of your plugs to get an indication of your mix but once you are close a dyno is the best way to get it right.

Newbie's right.
Fuel tap off.
Drain bowls.
Remove bowls.
Remove jets.
Replace jets.
Replace bolws.
Turn fuel on.

I made geeting the bolws off easier by taking one of the screws to a fastener's shop and now have Stainless Steel Allen head screws.
Oh heah,... It'll only cost you that much ... if you pay that much!

Hmmm, well... the calculator will get you close enough that plug color will be meaningless. In other words, the plugs will reflect a mix of riding conditions (including deceleration) that should produce a color within the normal window. The plugs will only look bad (after using the calculator) if you have defective carb circuits or faulty combustion seals (rings/valves/etc.). Idle mixture and balance won't change as a result of resizing the mains, so don't worry about that. Final tuning can be done with a dyno if you're horsepower hungry, but for many purposes, the calculator will be so close, it won't matter. I went to 125s after installing TORS, based on the calculator. The difference in the exhaust note was immediately apparent; not so dry and sharp after the change. There was also improvement in 5th gear WOT acceleration on the highway. No other changes or adjustments were necessary until several months later (last weekend). Because of the colder weather, the bike developed a lower-midrange flat spot that persisted every morning until I was nearly all the way to work (1/2 hour or so). I backed out the idle screws one turn each and the problem has been resolved.

Step-by-Step from our own Wizard.

http://www.dinqua.com/Triumph/carbs1.html

I pulled my carbs the first time but installed allen head screws and haven't had to since. I feel it is a good idea the first time to get familiar with where things are but after that jets can easily be changed with the carbs in place. (unless you get a stubborn pilot like I did once)

If you do pull the carbs it is a good idea to balance them after they are reinstalled. You may or may not need to adjust them but it can't hurt to check.

As Ian said if they have allen head screws it isn't necessary to pull the carbs for main & needle/shim changes. If you have man-sized hands, however, the port side rear inner screw is still a b1tch, though.

i just re-jetted two motorsickles today. if you dumped the brass Philip head screws you can re-jet in 1/2 an hour. The left carb is the fun one. Do it first. Remove the inside rear screw, loosen the outside rear, then the inside front, then remove em all. When re-installing, install the front outside then the rear outside then the front or rear inside. Installing the outside rear before the inside rear, allows you to set the enricher bracket from the easy side. Then use the small side of the L to hold the screw and insert into the inside rear hole. The interplay, with the enricher bracket and the screw threads, will hold it up till you can get some turns on. A 3mm ball end driver works well to get it seated then use the L wrench to 7nm it.
Tube of java cakes.