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Normal Electical Load
#294186 09/25/2008 7:31 AM
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Anyone know how many amps/watts the electical system draws during normal operations. Assuming no accessories. The missus and I like our heated clothing, plus a couple of extra lights would be nice and a better horn and a GPS and well you get my drift.

So it would be nice to know what I have available after the normal headlight, taillight and all.

thanks,

Yankee Dog


2002 BMW R1150RT 2003 Triumph Speedmaster 2005 Ural Gear Up
Re: Normal Electical Load
Yankee_Dog #294187 09/25/2008 8:16 AM
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I was asking about this myself, some time back. No one seemed to know. I had to settle for an estimate of current drawn by the factory light bar setup, but I don't how much more (if any) is available. I'm in the process of adding two 4" headlamps to mine, so I'm also concerned. The headlamps will each have a running light plus high/low beam halogen bulb. They'll be switched so I can turn them off, but it would still be useful to know if I'm draining the battery when everything is on.

I wonder if there's anything about this in the service manual. You would think the wattage rating of the alternator would be listed somewhere in the factory literature.

Jack


'08 America Blue/White; Custom Headlamps, Custom Lowers, Clearview 20", Bafflectomy
Re: Normal Electical Load
Yankee_Dog #294188 09/25/2008 9:13 AM
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All I know is that the speedo light on my bike dims and brightens as the turn indicators (Kuryaken silver bullets)blink, so we may be at the raggedy edge of current draw for too many add on's.


JB "Long live the Duck Force!"
Re: Normal Electical Load
Yankee_Dog #294189 09/26/2008 12:28 AM
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The alternator puts out 27 amps.

Amps = watts divided by volts.
Watts = amps X volts. In our case, 324 watts.

I don't know the amperage required to power the ignition system.

There is a mod to install heavier wire from the rectifier to the battery that is said to increase the voltage. I haven't tried it yet.

I do know that with the headlight on, the driving lights (Triumph) on, and a complete Gerbings outfit - pants/jacket liner/gloves/socks - the lights will dim at a stop and flicker as the heat controller cycles on and off. If I remember correctly, the Gerbings outfit adds up to 15 amps.

I know this isn't the direct answer to the question, but some of this info may help....


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Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294190 09/26/2008 3:20 PM
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Quote:

The alternator puts out 27 amps.




That's much more than the bike needs as it comes from the factory. This is probably a short-term capability intended to accomodate increased charging current after cranking the motor. Does the source of this info qualify the rating as being peak or continuous?

Jack


'08 America Blue/White; Custom Headlamps, Custom Lowers, Clearview 20", Bafflectomy
Re: Normal Electical Load
Lazyrider #294191 09/27/2008 12:05 AM
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The source of this info was my dealer's mechanic.
I said what's the alternator put out on my bike?
He said 27 amps....

I do know it has to be above 2000 rpms (rough guess) to indicate charging on my Kuryakin LED charging indicator.


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Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294192 09/29/2008 7:50 AM
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The owners manual gives the alternator output as 27 amps so the 324 available watts is correct. I had that part, but I dont know what the draw of everything else is. I can go through and add up all the lights, but I dont know enough about automotive electrical systems to know how what else is sucking electrons???

By the way, normally the amps given are continuous; at or above a certain RPM. For example on most bikes when you idle your engine you are not putting out enough amps to keep your battery charged. Oh well, it would appear that more research is in order.

Yankee Dog


2002 BMW R1150RT 2003 Triumph Speedmaster 2005 Ural Gear Up
Re: Normal Electical Load
Yankee_Dog #294193 09/29/2008 12:33 PM
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Quote:

By the way, normally the amps given are continuous; at or above a certain RPM. For example on most bikes when you idle your engine you are not putting out enough amps to keep your battery charged. Oh well, it would appear that more research is in order.




And therein lies the problem. When you add an additional load to the system, and come to a stop at a light or get stuck in heavy traffic, the lights go dim and the battery is not being charged. Whatever the actual output is at lower rpms, it's evident that it isn't enough to power a lot of accessories.... I turn my idle up to around 1200 - 1400 rpm when I'm suited up and it seems to help. But if I get stuck in traffic I switch the suit off and turn the lightbar off as well.


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Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294194 09/30/2008 12:26 PM
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Quote:

And therein lies the problem. When you add an additional load to the system, and come to a stop at a light or get stuck in heavy traffic, the lights go dim and the battery is not being charged. Whatever the actual output is at lower rpms, it's evident that it isn't enough to power a lot of accessories.... I turn my idle up to around 1200 - 1400 rpm when I'm suited up and it seems to help. But if I get stuck in traffic I switch the suit off and turn the lightbar off as well.




That's due in large part to the weeny wire between the regulator and the battery...


A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
Re: Normal Electical Load
oldroadie #294195 10/01/2008 12:19 AM
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I've got the wire, the fuse, and the info to make the mod. Just need the weather to turn bad enough so I can't ride, then I'll try that.

A related note - I have one of those flashing brake light bulbs installed. When I apply the brakes, the headlight and the light in the tach and speedo flicker slightly as well. I'm hoping the heavier wire mod corrects that also.


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Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294196 10/01/2008 12:54 AM
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Deon, take pictures so we can see where these wires are and what there hooked to........ Please


Chip Sciarra "07" America, N.C.Switch Blade windshield, Moto Lights, Tri. Off Road pipes
Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294197 10/01/2008 7:36 AM
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Quote:

A related note - I have one of those flashing brake light bulbs installed. When I apply the brakes, the headlight and the light in the tach and speedo flicker slightly as well. I'm hoping the heavier wire mod corrects that also.



It's going to help with that at speed but when the engine drops back to idle I'm afraid there's not too much that will improve anything as the alternator's output drops with the rpms. Still, a better connection to the battery will provide better charging allowing the battery to be a better reserve source.


A positive attitude may not solve all your problems, but it will annoy enough people to make it worth the effort. Herm Albright (1876 - 1944)
Re: Normal Electical Load
oldroadie #294198 10/02/2008 12:29 AM
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Agreed. It doesn't happen at speed. Happens at night, sitting at a red light. Let off the brake, then reapply if someone is approaching from behind, and then I notice the flickering. Very slight, but noticeable.

I didn't intend to hijack this thread... but I guess the point I'm making is that even if we had the hard numbers of alternator output per rpms it still comes down to the fact that the juice is limited at idle and additional loads just make it worse. I don't know that there is a fix. The alternator is what it is and no one has mentioned any higher output version being available.


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Re: Normal Electical Load
Deon #294199 10/02/2008 8:22 AM
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Quote:

.................even if we had the hard numbers of alternator output per rpms it still comes down to the fact that the juice is limited at idle and additional loads just make it worse. I don't know that there is a fix. The alternator is what it is and no one has mentioned any higher output version being available.




No bike that I am aware of puts out enough juice at idle to keep the bike charged even without electrical farkles. But I would like to make sure I dont add so much that I am draining the battery even at speed.

Yankee Dog


2002 BMW R1150RT 2003 Triumph Speedmaster 2005 Ural Gear Up

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