Here's the write-up I did for another forum:
Update: I've done about 200 miles on the new springs, most of them on the B-roads in the Trough Of Bowland, and...
THEY ARE FANTASTIC.
I can't stress enough the difference they made to the handling of the bike and the increased confidence they gave to me. If you ride your bike in any ways like it should be ridden, then these should be your first choice modification. When you pull the brake, the bike no longer makes you headbutt the floor, meaning you can ride faster, more safely. Overall stability is much improved and the ride is slightly firmer, in that you feel more of the road imperfections. I must stress the "slightly", tho. I know it's a cliche but it feels like a new bike.
The following method probably took longer to write than do and possibly makes it appear more complicated than it is. Everything is pretty much straightforward and even without these instructions, it would be easy enough to work out what to do. BTW, I'm not at all mechanically-inclined.
Tools required: 22mm socket. Allen key to remove bars. Bike lift. (Optional but makes it easier) Wire coat hanger to retrieve stock spring. Something to protect your tank. A cloth. Also, it's easier with 2 people: one to do the work, the other to hold the bars out of the way.
Fitting:
Loosen, but don't undo, fork cap securing bolts. (The ones on top of the forks)
Raise bike on lift until front wheel is off ground.
Remove bars from risers. Get helper to sit on seat and hold bars. Also stabilises bike.
Undo one fork cap bolt. Be aware, it's spring-loaded so will pop out with a fair bit of force. Just apply downward pressure when it's near to releasing.
Remove spacer. To remove the washer and old spring, I used the coat hanger. The spring may be covered in oil so allow excess to drain back into tube. Avoid losing too much oil.
Make a note of where the tighter coils are on the new spring (up or down) then drop it in.
Refit washer, spacer and cap. Note: this is where the bike lift makes the job easier; with weight off the forks, the top of the spacer is level with the top of the fork and tightening the cap is easier. Without the lift, downward pressure is needed to compress the spring to enable the cap to be fitted.
Repeat for other fork, ensuring tight coils are in same position as other side.
Lower bike. Tighten fork caps properly. Refit bars. Thank helper. Go for a ride.
NOTE: the new forks are dry and will possibly make a grinding noise when they're first compressed. This passes as they get covered in the fork oil.
NOTE, 2: the above only deals with changing the springs, not the oil. I thought I'd see how I fared with stock oil and it seems fine for me (12stone). A bigger person may need heavier oil.
Hope I've persuaded you to do this modification; it's well worth it.
