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Oil Change how-to
#289314 08/27/2008 1:25 AM
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With the amount of technical savvy on this forum, could someone please post a step-by-step "how-to" on doing an oil change on their TBA? My dealer wants $120 to do it, but I am quite sure that I could do it for much less...

Thanks!


'05 British Racing Green TBA ISO grips/pegs/TOR shorties/AI removed My blog: http://adonaisemperfi.blogspot.com/
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289315 08/27/2008 9:32 AM
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Put bike on jack or not this is debatable.
Place container under bike (optional)
Remove drain plug.
Move container so it actually catches the oil.
Remove filter.
Fill new filter with oil that you have decided is the best after searching on here repeatedly.
Replace filter now filled with the perfect oil.
Replace drain plug.
Fill with wonderful oil.

Or do what I do. Have you bike explode every 1500 miles so the dealer does it for free.

Re: Oil Change how-to
Dill #289316 08/27/2008 10:55 AM
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As far as on the jack goes you don't have to do that but try and get it as level as possible so all the oil drains. Something under the kick stand will do the trick.

When filling the filter gently shake it a little to get air pockets out of it. Also dip your finger in the oil and smear some on the filter gasket so it slides against the case and won't catch and kink.


I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains.
Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
Re: Oil Change how-to
The_Dog33 #289317 08/27/2008 3:22 PM
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Do the oil change not long after a ride; warm oil flows better and so you get more of the crap out. Mind you don't burn yourself.

You may also want to replace the drain plug crush washer; some people do, others reuse the old one; they're not expensive. Takes 14mm.

Look in the tech section for oil and filter types.

The biggest part of the job is what to do with the old oil. If you're not-so-green, you can pour it down a grid. A local garage will probably charge you to dispose of it (they themselves get charged to have it taken away) or, do what I do and take it to the tip (for which there's no charge in the UK).
(I dunno what you lot call a tip: waste management facility?)

Re: Oil Change how-to
Echoance #289318 08/27/2008 3:26 PM
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You have some options on oil disposal around here the big box auto stores (autozone, pepboys etc) will take it for free.
Or you can take it to the dump for a small fee. Or most local garages will have a waste oil burner or know someone with one. (at least in the cold climates.)

Re: Oil Change how-to
Dill #289319 08/27/2008 5:36 PM
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Quote:


Place container under bike (optional)

Move container so it actually catches the oil.







that step is critical, it will shoot out 6 inches from the hole when you open it up... have a big container


Always remember to be yourself. Unless you suck. Then pretend to be someone else.
Re: Oil Change how-to
roadworthy #289320 08/27/2008 7:59 PM
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The crush washer can be refreshed nicely by heating it with a torch (use long needle-nose pliers or something similar to hold the washer) & then drop the heated washer in a cup of water. It makes for a snug seal when replacing the drain plug.

Re: Oil Change how-to
B02S4 #289321 08/27/2008 8:56 PM
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I dump drain oil in the tank for my furnace and burn it. Been doing it for years with no ill effects but don't try it with gear oil. Tranny fluid burns very well. Be sure you have plenty of heating oil in there when you do it and be sure you have a squeeky clean drain pan.


I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains.
Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
Re: Oil Change how-to
Dill #289322 08/27/2008 10:08 PM
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Quote:


Or do what I do. Have you bike explode every 1500 miles so the dealer does it for free.






Glad to see you still have a sense of humor Dill!


Flame on!!!


A word to the wise is not necessary. It is the stupid ones who need the advice. Pat
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289323 08/28/2008 1:45 AM
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Quote:

My dealer wants $120 to do it




What's the hourly rate at most US dealers now? $60? $75? More?

Jack


'08 America Blue/White; Custom Headlamps, Custom Lowers, Clearview 20", Bafflectomy
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289324 08/28/2008 2:17 AM
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I think my dealer is still charging $35-$40 per hour.

A piece of 2x4 under the kickstand gets it level enough to change the oil.

Heating then cooling the copper washer is called annealing. Softens the copper. Don't try it with aluminum - makes it brittle.

The drain plug gets tightened to 25nm - don't gorilla it.
The filter gets tightened to 8-12nm. Since no one in the free world ever put a torque wrench on an oil filter, that equates to "turn it 3/4 to 1 turn by hand after the gasket (pre-slimed with clean oil as mentioned above) contacts the filter base."

Run and check for leaks.

Drain the old filter and chuck it in the garbage. Give the used oil to someone with a waste oil burner.


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Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289325 08/28/2008 6:19 AM
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Those fancy $8 store bought oil drain pans than can be sealed up with plugs are handy to transport your waste oil.

Motor oil trivia, part 319 - If you can't find a waste oil user, it's federal law that whoever sells motor oil must take back an equivalent (by receipt) amount of waste oil for free. No ifs ands buts or exceptions allowed. That doesn't mean every vendor abides by that though.

More burp talk - Waste oil is considered by some to be carcinogenic, perhaps due to the heavy metals? I don't know where the jury is on that one at the moment, but after 40 years of no gloves, one day I decided to use rubber gloves. My reaction was akin to: "Why didn't I start wearing these 40 years ago?" I guess it wasn't manly back then.

Re: Oil Change how-to
Dinqua #289326 08/28/2008 9:10 AM
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Quote:

Quote:


Or do what I do. Have you bike explode every 1500 miles so the dealer does it for free.






Glad to see you still have a sense of humor Dill!


Flame on!!!




I haven't paid for an oil change on my bike in 2 years.
Got 3 oil changes though. Its just the lag time, even I could do 1 in less than a month.

Re: Oil Change how-to
Dill #289327 09/04/2008 1:27 AM
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I think the dealer here charges about $75-$80/hr for service - so a 1 hr oil change could come to $120 when you add in the cost of oil, filter, etc.

If I reuse the drain plug crush washer do I need to anneal it first, or can I just put it right back on?

How do you measure out 1.03 US gallons? Just put in 4 quarts and call it even?

Oh, and do I need to have a torque wrench to reinstall the drain plug?

Thanks for the help, guys.


'05 British Racing Green TBA ISO grips/pegs/TOR shorties/AI removed My blog: http://adonaisemperfi.blogspot.com/
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289328 09/04/2008 1:57 AM
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Clean the washer and the drain plug and inspect them. If there are no scratches or flaws - reuse the washer. I reused mine probably 4 or 5 times without losing a drop of oil.
Make sure you wipe off the filter mating surface and the surface where the drain plug seats so you don't have any carbuncles on there when you go back together.

.03 gallons is 3.84 ounces. Fill the oil filter 1/2 to 3/4 full before you install it, then add 4 quarts of oil to the crankcase and you should be fine.

I don't know how you torque anything without having a torque wrench... but I do know over-torquing steel fasteners/drain plugs into aluminum castings will make your eyes and your wallet weep.


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Re: Oil Change how-to
Dill #289329 09/04/2008 8:42 AM
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Quote:

You have some options on oil disposal around here the big box auto stores (autozone, pepboys etc) will take it for free.
Or you can take it to the dump for a small fee. Or most local garages will have a waste oil burner or know someone with one. (at least in the cold climates.)




I take mine to a beautifully pastoral stream – Particularly one with those pesky, rare snail darters. I liberally dump some of it into the babbling brook. The remaining oil goes onto the ground surrounding the stream. This helps control other pests such as fanshell, clubshell, northern riffleshell and pink ring mussles, and bog turtles. It also discourages unwanted feeding by those ****** plovers. If there are ample quantities of oil (I sometimes wait until I have several gallons), spreading the oil over wider expanses will remove the threat of over-population of flora and fauna such as the rare Indiana Bat, Blue Karner butterfly, American Burying Beetle, Eastern Tiger Beetle, and even the Gray Wolf. Igniting the oil will also control bulrush, Virginia Spiraea, pogonia and Eastern Prairie orchids. Spent filters can also be placed on a long pole and used as delightfully decorative tiki torches.


2004 Triumph Speedmaster (J Lo) 2006 Yamaha Stratoliner (Adele)
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289330 09/04/2008 9:51 AM
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Quote:

If I reuse the drain plug crush washer do I need to anneal it first, or can I just put it right back on?

How do you measure out 1.03 US gallons? Just put in 4 quarts and call it even?

Oh, and do I need to have a torque wrench to reinstall the drain plug?

Thanks for the help, guys.




I just reuse the washer and don't do anything with it just slap it back on and it doesn't leak.

I found that I have a little left over from 4 qts to get the correct oil level. I have a little less than 1/4 qt left in one oil bottle when done. Be sure to fill the filter before you install and smear some oil on the gasket. I used a converter and found that it figures on paper to be just over 4 qts. but in practice it's just under 4 qts. I don't know if this varies from bike to bike or year to year.

I have never in my life used a torque wrench for an oil change. just don't tighten the drain plug gorilla tight. Just good and snug so it won't come loose.


I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains.
Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
Re: Oil Change how-to
The_Dog33 #289331 09/04/2008 4:10 PM
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Quote:

...I have never in my life used a torque wrench for an oil change. just don't tighten the drain plug gorilla tight. Just good and snug so it won't come loose.




Same here. Never had a problem.

Re: Oil Change how-to
B02S4 #289332 09/05/2008 2:02 AM
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You guys probably never asked anyone how to change oil either. To you and me and those who do this stuff all the time it sure ain't rocket science, but to someone who has to ask, I prefer to recommend the right way.
There was a post on here not too long ago about someone stripping out their drain plug... I don't want to tell somebody to "snug" anything when there is a torque value for it. Especially when it is obvious they've never done it before.
So while I respect the expertise and experience you have, a newbie needs a little more guidance.


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Re: Oil Change how-to
Deon #289333 09/05/2008 6:42 AM
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Casting a vote for: Fasteners into aluminum = torque wrench mandatory, no matter who you are, or what you know

Re: Oil Change how-to
Bucky #289334 09/05/2008 11:35 AM
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Well maybe for the novice, although, as I stated before I , NEVER used one for an oil change ever. Aluminum or steel. I pretty much only use them for engine internals , heads , and cyl. I have been wrenching for better than 30 years and have NEVER had a torque related issue. So maybe Mandatory for you but don't include me in there, I have been at this long enough to know what I need to torque.


I learned all I need to know about life by killing smart people and eating their brains.
Eat right ,Exercise ,Stay fit, Die Anyway!
Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289335 09/05/2008 3:13 PM
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I always use a torgue wrench, I think thats a left over habit from 20 yrs in the Air Force where torque specs were closely adhered to. Oh and that used oil, I thought that was to pour on top of my wooden fence post to preserve them.


'06 America, Raask foot controls, the bike use to be Graphite and Silver, now its Red and Black.
Re: Oil Change how-to
Bruce #289336 09/25/2008 3:31 PM
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I've got 3600 miles on my 2003 TBA. I'm not the original owner (had it for about 6 months), but my question is do I need to change the oil ASAP or can I wait until after the Oyster Run (aka long ride) this coming weekend?

I won't be able to get into the dealer (plus the $ is robbery), so if I must change my oil it means I'll be following the directions above.


2003 Black, EPCO pipes
Re: Oil Change how-to
Bruce #289337 09/25/2008 4:21 PM
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Quote:

20 yrs in the Air Force

Nuff said!


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Re: Oil Change how-to
BlackBeauty #289338 09/26/2008 1:45 AM
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If a good synthetic oil was used you could probably wait till after this weekend to change the oil. I run Amsoil in my 03 and I've gone close to 5000 miles before an oil change. I prefer to change it around 4000, but I have gone past that....

A friend of mine told me the following, which I have since found to be true, for me, anyway. On a bike with a common sump (engine and transmission combined, like ours) when your shifts start to get a bit rough - clunks a bit, neutral seems harder to find - it is definitely time to change the oil.

Let the games begin.....


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Re: Oil Change how-to
HarvDog #289339 09/26/2008 8:12 PM
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We in the Air Force didn't want to be like those in the army and have our nuts drag the ground, so we used a torque wrench.


'06 America, Raask foot controls, the bike use to be Graphite and Silver, now its Red and Black.
Re: Oil Change how-to
BlackBeauty #289340 09/26/2008 8:36 PM
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Youll be fine...

You could also change it yourself. Heck...you dont even need a lift but its nice to have.


SOLD: 07 Black BA, 39mm FCRs, TPUSA stage 1 head, TPUSA 813 cams, TPUSA 10.8:1 pistons, TTP #3 igniter, Specialty Spares Long Cannons, Tsukayu Hard Bags. 82HP/55tq NEW: 19 Goldwing Tour DCT

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