Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Few questions about chain adjustments

Hi all, I need to adjust my chain abit and have a couple of questions. The owners manual doesnt mention jacking up the bike when adjusting the chain, is this a givin or can it be done on the sidestand?
What size socket will I need to get for the spindle nut, my metric tool collection is pitiful. I'll have to get a torque wrench to, any recommendations there?
Any other tips you might have on doing this would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks, Craig

The chain must be adjusted while under load. That is while your bike is at least on the side stand. I think the spindle nut is 24mm while the spindle integral-nut is 22mm. Chances are you will only need the 24mm socket as the spindle doesn't want to rotate. Does 85nm sound right for the spindle nut torque? Measure the chain play at the middle of the bottom run. The play should be 20 to 30mm. After adjusting, ensure the adjusters are at the rear shoulder of each adjuster and double check the chain tension again as it has a tendency to tighten up when the spindle nut is torqued. Tips would be to consider using the outside of the range, i.e., 30mm. Especially if you ride two up or are planning on loading your bike for a road trip, or alternatively, you like to carry motorsickle batteries and loads of beer...

Edited: Ensure the adjusters are each equal distant from the rear of the swing arm. Count the threads with a toothpick, or use a micrometer to measure. There are stamped dots that you can reference with each adjusters notches. But counting the threads is a universal way to ensure wheel alignment.

Get a good torque wrench, I have one that goes up to 100 lb-ft from Sears and one thats up to like 250 I got at the Depot, both are real nice. I'm working on my 1/2 inch drive socket collection now too to go with them. I found a nice 6 or 7 piece set that included the 22, 24 etc, and I got a big ol 36mm one separately for the sprocket nut.

Thanks Moe, Thats just the info I was hoping for.
bennybmn, thanks for the advice on the torque wrench, I'll be off to Sears in the morning.
Craig

Keep your eyes peeled for sales at sears too. I did a LOT of shopping the week before fathers day!! Got most of my sockets and some ratcheting box end wrenches then.

Hi Craig,

Used to have a house by P.K. Yonge. Had a major frisbee golf course layed out on P.K. Yonge's campus too.

Torque wrenches. You'll need at least two. One for the higher range and one for the lower range. The front sprocket takes 132nm or about 97.4 ft lbs. The engine covers take 9nm. I checked to ensure that the spindle's nut is to be torqued to 85nm.

God's growing greener grass in Gainesville.

Thanks again guys.
Moe, when I was torqueing (is that a word?) the spindle nut down the spindle started to rotate, you said it probably wouldnt, do I have something going on here? Craig

One thing to watch out for. Chains seldom wear evenly, so start by jacking up the bike if you have a lift, and watch the chain while you rotate the wheel. When the chain is at its tightest spot, put the bike down and adjust the chain. If you don't have a lift, roll the bike forward or backward to find the tightest spot. If there is a lot of difference in your chain and you happen to be at the loosest spot when you adjust it, it is possible that the tight spot will be so tight that it will damage the bike.

CCW, No. Just hold the fixed nut with a cresent wrench. Sometimes it won't need to be held. Sometimes it will. Greybeard made mention of a most important point. Being as how I just installed a new chain kit, I forgot to mention that. The chain will have tight spots on it. The tight spots are as much a function of the front sprocket's teeth being waved with wear as they are with the chain stretching. Always seek the point where the chain is the tightest, then adjust. Yes the chain will appear too loose when you roll the chain further, but that is the way it goes. When you adjust the chain via Greybeard's hint, and the chain seems loose all the time, think about a new chain kit.

Here is a picture of a brand new front sprocket and a worn out one. Can you tell which is which? (This is one time when the left is, well never mind! I'll save that talk for Greg!)

OK, I must add my 2 cents about chains and their adjustment. I hate chains, they're noisy and can't be bathed in oil like internal engine chains.
I went to the Honda Superbike race at Birmingham in May, and watching these folks run 180mph with their chains flopping around, really freaked me out. I asked a mechanic in the paddock area "why so much slop in the chains?" He said they last longer that way and perform better. He told me to adjust the chain no tighter than the loosest point recommended by manufacturer and no more, stating again better performance.
Ride Safe,
Dennis

Thanks all for your help, I left it kinda on the loose side as that seems to be the thing to do.
Counting the threads is a great tip, that, and lining up the notches on the adjusters should really keep everything straight.
All in all a fairly easy process, but whenever I take a wrench to something new for the first time I get alittle spooked Craig

Craig,

Congrats on your first chain adjustment! Really. the more you perform these maintenance task the more comfortable you will be. We are here for you when you want to change out your brake pads, adjust your valves, change your oil, and help you drink your beer. The important thing to note about wrenching yourself is that you know it is done right. Too many times the dealer's mechanics could care less about the work they perform on our rides.

hey some of the guys here wont just help you drink your beer, they will drink all of it for you

Frank