Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Brake Caliper Retaining Pin-rounded socket head

I nearly had to buy a new rear brake caliper housing ($540) because of a Brake Caliper Retaining Pin socket head being rounded out, and the 5mm allen head socket not being able to remove it. I drilled the pin, and used an easy-out and broke the tip of the easy-out off inside the bolt. 4 lessons learned:

1) Perhaps the worst thing you can do is to break off the tip of the easy out inside the hole in the bolt. Then you have a hardened steel bit right in the center. Also, in many good size towns there is a "specialist" who will come to your place and do it for about $60, if you have not already broken off an easy out in the hole. Call your nearest motorcycle or auto repair shop for a local specialist's name.
2)be sure you use a very good 5mm allen head socket, not just an old "Craftsman". Perhaps even buy a new one. Even a slightly rounded tip will round the bolt hole socket.
3) a very good mechanic got the bolt out by hammering a suitable sized torx bit into the socket head hole, slightly heated the surrounding caliper (not enought to destroy the rubber brake piston seals), and then used an impact wrench and a hammer to loosen it. Total cost: $38. Total saved: $540-$38. The mechanic was already gone when I drove to the shop to pick it up-but if I see him again (Paul at KC Powersports in Huntsville) I will give him a good tip. I wish there was a Triumph dealer around here with a good mechanic like that, or even just a Triumph dealer.
4) Periodically replace the Brake Pad Retaining Pins. Cost of consequences versus cost of pins could be very expensive.

Socket head screw was probably locktighted and tourqed to factory specs. Red Locktight, has to be heated to release, and there are different grades of red, so if you use it, do your home work. I would recomend the blue color, because it's a medium strength. Everybody that has a motorcycle should invest in a hammer type impact socket driver. Like a tire gauge, it's one of those must have items IMHO. I'm glad you got the job done.

Torx bits can work wonders. I learned the trick about a year ago from a backwoods, jerry-riggin cousin of mine, and it sure has come in handy. Since then I've learned almost exactly what you have, try the allen and if it starts to slip, assume loc-tite has been used and heat if possible, if that doesn't work or you can't heat the area, then keep trying with the allen until there is no hope, then break out the torx (and hopefully an impact), if that doesn't work try cutting a slot into the head of the bolt and use a hammer and punch to drive it the direction you want. If that doesn't work try drilling and an easy out.
On the other hand, I usually use this course of action because I don't keep easy outs on hand and for some reason or another the stores are always closed when I'm working on the bike. I'm sure that other people have had fine luck with easy outs and find them easier to use, and more efficient, than the process I just laid out. To each his own, and whatever works, works!
Congrats on saving all that loot!

Glad you got it sorted without having to buy a caliper.

Here's my 2 cents on the situation...

Whenever I remove those pins, I clean them up real good, shaft area where the pad rides and threads as well. Then I coat them with a very slight coating of anti-sieze and reinstall them. The torque is only 18nm and if cleaned and torqued properly, they aren't going anywhere between pad changes. Over time, the heads will start to wallow out due to tool wear, and a spare set is a good idea. The trick is to replace them before you get into trouble...
I had a similar situation as I had installed the chrome caliper covers on my bike. A standard socket mounted allen bit would reach but didn't quite bottom in the head recess as the socket would contact the chrome cover. I nearly rounded out the pin heads after a few pad changes and bought both new pins and bought some long socket mounted allen bits from Wiha tools. Problem solved.

IMHO, "impact" tools of any kind on a motorcycle is a last resort. You're just asking for trouble.
Taking your time and using the right hand tools in good condition can prevent a lot of heartache.

I have one of those hammer type impact wrenches. My problem is finding bits and adaptors for it! I also have an electric impact driver (ideally for carpentry) but I've used it to remove a blue loctited screw. Came right out. Awesome tool. Again, need bits... Anyone know a source? Sears has yer basic large impact socket sets, thats about it.

the torx bit combined with the hand held hammere type impact is a great idea but be sure to use a good strong torx.

just wait until you you have to loosen the bleeder.

just kidding.

A 4 foot pipe over the end of the wrench makes short work of those bleeders....

At least the part that protrudes from the caliper.