Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech Bars swap / cable reroute

I just received my buckhorns today and I'm looking forward to working on the swap. However, ( there always seems to be a however) some questions... To re route, do the cables have to be disconnected (Seems logical) clutch and throttle? Brake? Tank removed? I seem to recall some one routed behind the triple tree but I couldn't find it.
About how long does this swap take for some one with four thumbs....all opposable of course.

Definately remove the tank, you'll probably have to move the throttle cables to the right side of the frame under there. The cables will be easier if you disconnect them at the handlebar end. Only do 1 throttle cable at a time, it could cause some surprizes you won't like if you accidentally cross them.
Try to relocate the brake master cylinder without disconnecting it if it is possible. Otherwise, you are going to have to bleed the front brake.

Before disconnecting anything though, give it a try. Everything might reach as is.

Hopefully, you will be doing this in a garage or shop?

If so, mount some eyebolts 18" or so apart in the ceiling and run wire or cord down from both. Run the bike right underneath these wires/cords and you will be able to tie up all sorts of things (makes a great extra pair of hands).

Yeah I'll be doing it inside and have overhead joists.
Good ideas,guys. BTW, do I have to get grip glue for re-securing the hand grips after the swap?
Thanks

This is what worked for me, your results may vary....

I didn't remove the tank because I didn't have to disconnect anything.
I removed the left controls from the bar and let them hang.
I suspended the brake reservoir and right controls from the ceiling, removed the hardware that holds them on, then removed the clamps that hold the bars on. Then I slid the bars out of the right controls.
I took the stock bars in the house and ran hot water over the left grip. It loosened up and slid right off. While it was still warm, I slid it onto the buckhorns. When it cooled it was tight - no glue needed.
Then I slid the bar into the hanging right controls and reservoir and bolted everything back together.
This is just installing the buckhorns on an '03 TA, no risers or spacers used.
The only adjustment I had to make was to move the throttle cables where they go around the front neck of the frame. They were originally running underneath the big gob of wiring harness there. I positioned them above that big gob and it gave me enough clearance/play so the throttle didn't open when the bars were turned lock to lock. Everything worked fine - maybe slightly tight, but not enough to worry about.

Again, your results may vary.

Oh, it helps to block the front wheel so it can't flop to either side while you're doing this.....

and one other thing, pay attention to the screws you take out of the control assemblies. they are different and won't interchange.

Grump,
That is exactly the information I was looking for...
A to Z instructions. It seems that if I anticipate all the problems then the only problems I'll have are the unanticipated ones. Tonight 's the night.

Hair spray makes GREAT grip glue....it sticks well and is easy to get off if ya wanna change grips/bars again.

yea for dirt bikes, but you dont want that "holding" your grip on going 80mph down the highway, that's for sure!!

Well guys, I've got to hand it to you. The swap to buckhorns is exactly what my poor ol' aching rotator cuffs needed. It is so comfortable. Only took me 3+ hrs thursday
night (I am learning.) and then bleeding the brake Friday...Great tip on tying off the brake lever.
The cables ARE tight without tank removal/ reroute.
I have to have the bars rolled somewhat forward to avoid binding the throttle. One important question....I am getting a wicked "shimmy" if I let go of both grips ( i.e. to zip my jacket ); Is this the "vibration" that is a result of not having bar end weights? It is like an increasingly widening oscillation. I don't feel that any of the cables are "pulling" one way or another. Any thoughts?
BTW, I took some pictures and hope to get them up next week.
I know how much you guys like pictures in your literature..That's a joke, son.

Vibration is probably normal till you dampen the buckhorns with weights, lead shot, or something. But a shimmy is probably the result of low air pressure, wheel balance, bearing play in the front end, loose or broken spokes, or as I found out nearly the hard way, worn (in my case, worn out!! ) tires.

Welcome to the wonderful world of "Finding the Problem I Didn't Have Before"....

With only 5500 miles, bearing, wheel balance shouldn't be a problem.

No broken spokes, but loose? HMMM. But, I really should check tire pressure, it has been a while.

Grump the hot water ideal works great.