Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Accessories Floating Rotors

Ordered a set of EBC ProLight Floating Rotors with Sintered metal pads from Fast Eddy Sports (total $450 Free Shipping no tax for CA)on Monday evening and recieved them Wed morning.Put them on the Bike Thursday evenening after work and started breaking them in this morning.
My old stock rotors had 20,220 miles on them and were pretty far worn beyond recommended service life(0.198).
Noticed that the new EBC discs were loose on the wheel register when fitting them. They had 0.016 play beyond the wheel register diameter so I centered them using two 0.008 feeler gauges between the wheel and the disc while tightening them and this seemed to work well. I don't know if 0.016 out of round would have made a difference or not but I like it as close as possible (comments on that?)
Anyway they look good on the front of the speedy and seem to work well so far. They have a pretty explicit "bedin" procedure to follow plus 200 miles of riding braking before regular use is recommended.
Good price and the drop-ship from CA was quick.
Thanks Eddy Also, thanks to whomever that was a while back recommending the use of a Hammer-Torque-driver to loosen the disc retaining bolts as it worked well. I used the old bolts with 242 loctite to put it back together with.

Gary

I don't know if I reccomended the torque driver, but that is a good move! I stripped the head off one of those screws when I did mine. $6 a piece!!!

Benny,

I'm sure I would have stripped mine out as well. I never saw so much loctite when I removed the bolts. The factory seems to be excessive with that stuff.
Gary

the floating rotor and HH pads work well, but we need better calipers to get full use out of them i think. but they are a big jump from the stock stuff

Frank

Got mine out OK using the hammer-torque wrench method, but I stripped one (head) reinstalling them. It's staying that way until I have to remove it again.

Tom

A little (A LITTLE) heat does the trick nicely.

Another thumbs up for Eddy and rapid receipt of his floating rotors.

I pulled my old warped rotors the other night, and all went well, except for one rotor bolt, that came half way out with ease, then stopped at the half way point. I wrung it off, and thankfully resisted the temptation to try and drill it myself, as there is a machine shop / race engine shop in town. I don't know what Triumph gets for a new wheel, but I reckon I don't want to pay it, and figured the folks who do this x times a month can have at it. The verdict from the machinist - he believes it was crossed at the factory, and pulled a thread on the way up. He tapped it, and it looks like new in there. Plenty of fastener redundancy (IMO) if it isn't. After work today I'm off to the dealer for new rotor bolts, which is perhaps overkill as I had planned to reuse the old ones, but as long as I'm buying one...

Be prepared for some "sticker shock"..

You guys with the hammer-torque driver and impact wrench fetish are going to be sorely disappointed one of these days...

A little heat (as mentioned) and a socket mounted allen bit is much safer.

...searching...searching...searching....

"5 bolts - $33.40"

Heck Yeah! Nothing like a 1000% mark-up to keep the Marque strong!
Just doing my part to keep the brand alive


Come to think of it, there's a Yamaha dealer just up the road from the Triumph dealer... Hmmmm
If time allows...

Paid $7.41 for eaxh rotor bolt with the tax

but...

They came with blue Loctite already on them, so if Loctite costs a penny per drop,
they saved me roughly twenty four cents! Hoo hoo!

OUCH! I hate the way they mark things up, I went in one time for the stupid little plastic loops that hold the wires to the handle bars and they were like $3 each or something like that for a 25 cent clip. I decided then to run my wires inside the bars.

I thought i would get some comments on centering the rotor on the wheel issue. They were off buy 16 thousandths which is a lot of being out of round with a rotating disc that large.
Don't you think?

I was just about to say something about that. It could have thrown the wheel out of balance, maybe not enough to notice but maybe enough to cause uneven tire wear, Not sure if the bolts would have centered it for you or not since I haven't changed any rotors on these bikes yet. I think the feeler gauge idea was a good one.

Quote:

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I don't know what Triumph gets for a new wheel

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$620.00 for Speedmaster front wheel.

An air impact wrench is just fine if you're very familiar with their use. I don't recommend them for novices.

Back when I was flat-rating, I never used a torque wrench; used my air impacts on everything.
You get a feel for it.

At first I though the bolts would center it too but they didn't hence the felller gauge idea. The original/stock disc fit very tight on the register of the wheel hub.
I think your correct about the out of balance issue especially the brake pad bedding on the disc may be strange as well. I think this could cause a braking problem that I just now thought about.
Maybe we can hear from Brent or Eddy on this issue.
Gary
This is something all should concider when

I paid $6 a bolt way back when. They do have a locating shoulder under the head, so it's not an off the shelf item for most hardware stores... The nice thing about those bolts is you can see the tip in the back of the hub, it's a thru hole. So you can use a pen torch to heat the tip and the head, loosen that loctite nicely without scorching anything. PS I have a spare bolt if anyone is truly stuck...