Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Custom Corner Questions about painting for a first timer

I just got a used tank....looking for some fenders also. I plan on painting flat black or like Glazers Hot rod Black
AWESOME looking bike...


I have a couple of questions:
1. What is the best method to prepare that tank for painting? There are no dings/dents etc. I just need to get the surface ready for paint.

2. I have an air compressor and am looking at a cheap sprayer. Harbor Freight has several...some bigger some smaller. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Category.taf?CategoryID=324&pricetype= I will never paint more than motorcycle tins...so any suggestions?

I usually have my tins media blasted, but you could probably just wet sand with 500 grit until there's no shine left and go. Can't give you any gun recommendations. I don't have any and my buddy has really expensive ones.

Find a local sand blaster to do the tank and rear fender. Should cost you less than $100 bucks and you will be starting with fully stripped tins.

The front is plastic so I suggest sanding that one. Media blasting could pit it if not done gently.

Get any cheap gravity fed gun. (Plastic bowl on top) Bottom buckets will be a bit tricky for a new guy. Read about reducers and activators etc.

Have you considered a satin powder coat on the metal tins and just paint the fender?

I would media blast if there is no reason, it changes the metal and makes very prone to rust. I only use that on a surface already rusty or damaged. I would just wet sand with 600 grit , not sure if you would want to go to 1500 grit or not. All you need to do is scuff the surface remove all wax and clear coat to leave a kind of swirl finish. I don't know much about paint guns so can't tell you anything there except like Satxron says, the gravity guns are easier to use.

How big is your compressor? A big tank really helps. I only have a pancake, so I've been sticking to rattle can lately with good results, but only on small parts, never a whole tank or fender. The HVLP gravity guns are probably best like others said. I think Glazer used a two part paint, so that's a whole other science, the mixing, proportions, etc. Then there's the spray technique. Never stop moving while you are squirting!! Always release the trigger, THEN stop or change direction.

I have a 40 Gallon tank on my compressor. The good thing is that its an extra tank so I can always start over if it sucks the first time HAHA.

I think I will start by just sanding as others suggested and trying one of the gravity feed guns.

As for the powder coat...yeah I condisdered it but I am wanting to go as cheap as possible. Thats why i am going to do it myself.

Yeah I think just sanding would be fine. Clean it REALLY well both before and after sanding. I hear Simple Green cleans wax off paint. Really you just need to give the paint some tooth, but as most will say, it's all in the prep.

90% of a good paintjob is prep. Probably another 5% is making sure you don't mix product - stay with the same family (DuPont, PPG, etc.) from primer to clear. Anyone can figure out how to spray paint with a little practice.

Another tip? Do all the prep yourself and take it to a bodyshop for squirting. Sometimes you can negotiate a deal if you do most of the labor yourself.

Thanks for all the advice. I will take before and after pictures when i start....and post them if they look good HAHA.

Thanks again guys

$300? That barely covers the materials cost anymore.

The way i look at it.....Gotta learn sometime. I will be using an extra tank and fender so if its not right....sand and re-shoot it. Even if I had an extra 300 I would probably still do it myself. Plus its not gonna be a fancy paint job anyways......Primer or Hot Rod Black.

Answers from a first timer...
This is what I was taught to do just last month...

1. remove tins.
2) wash and dry the tins soap and water.
3) use degreaser and clean tins again
You do not want to sand the dirt and wax into the metal/undercoat. Painter supply can provide the degreaser.
3) fill any dents / deep scratches with a decent body filler.
4) wet sand w/ 600 grit.
I used an auto body hard rubber block.
It flexes a bit. Try not to sand down to the metal.
5) If you do use a sandable primer for metal
plastic primer for the plastic pieces and sand again.

Once everything is good and smooth wipe everything down with clean lint free wrags and alcohol-(Lowes in bags)

I have a Porter Cable HVLP gun. Clean the gun. Take it apart and clean everything. Make sure the nozzle holes are clear of previous gunk. Use the stuff in a gallon tin can, I asked the local supply place for "gun cleaner" They know what your after...

Select your paint I used PPG Omni it's a 5 year paint, they have all kinds and prices....

I would suggest that more is better then not enough. Get a quart of paint and the right amount of hardener. The ratio is on the can. Again your paint supply guy can help.

Set up the tins in your clean environment and wipe them a final time with alcohol.

Mix the paint.. Consistency of water... It will run unless you shoot light even coats. It dries fast. Wet Sand any blemishes w/ 1000 or 1200, dry, alcohol wipe and shoot another coat. Wet sand, Alcohol clean and repeat if needed. I had to shoot three coats I was going orange over red.. lighter over dark...

Lightly wet sand painted tins with the highest grit you can find. 2000 / 2200. Dry and wipe with Alcohol,

Mix clear and hardener. Again ratio's and the right clear as suggested by the supply store.

Shoot nice even wet but not runny coats of the clear. It will dry in 20-30 minutes. Wet sand, alcohol wipe and shoot again. Same for third coat. If you have any runs or orange peel you can sand them out,,

After everything is done painted / clear coated give the tins a day or two to harden.

Use a hand buffere and high grit polish and buff out the clear. This is tedioous as you do not want to burn through.

My experience...
I ended up first effort with a B+ paint job.
It's not hard but it is tedious as all get out...

I had $170 into materials...