Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech gearbox

Hi everyone just a quick question got 300km on my bike today ,1st to second shift really clunk this normal, idle about 1400rpm told still running in sounds shocking hard as i might try cant get a smooth change !!!give me some ideas...while I`m still under warranty even when I shift down clunk clunk ect...

Without hearing the noise it is difficult to say... Howvere, with the low miles I assume your bike could be experienceing the affects of non-syn, break-in oil, or initial cable stretching. Either can make gear selection a bit cumbersome. In either case, I would make your dealer aware. In the event they should they be needed, you don't want to buy repaires if they are warranted issues.

Try backing the idle speed off to 1100 and see if that helps. The adjuster is the black knob below the left carburettor.
Could also be the clutch is dragging a bit, I think the owners manual has the adjustment procedure in it.

I've had a speedmaster and an America and both clunked somewhat. It gets better with wear. Chain tension seems to affect it. I think it is just a characteristic of design.

Mine doesn't clunk at all and never did.pipedr is probably on the right track.

If you also have trouble getting into neutral while stopped, the clutch may need adjusting.
Use the adjuster on the crankcase, not on the handlebar.

Just got up and read replys. Going to lower the revs see if that helps then 2morrow see the dealer. Thxs guys and have a good day or night

Check the for play in the cush drive. Grab the chain sprocket and try to turn it back and forth. If it moves (independently of the wheel), you may need a replacement under warranty.

Just tried it and there is play there . about 6-7 mm this common, gonna let the dealer know thxs.

If thats all the play you have in your cush you are fine in that respect.

Ok got it down to the dealer today has a listen bingo second clunks !! bad may i add.. a real head turner bah only
300km so I`m told to leave it there and 2moro the tec will have a look hopefully with some good news not happy and only 1 song comes to mind (lemone tree very pretty
ectect ) keep u all up to date as the plot thikens

good song, too bad it doesn't seem to be something normal. Hope the tech finds it need a clutch adjustment or something along those lines. These are man made machines and every now and then there will be a bad one, here's to hoping yours isn't one.

thxs man I hope so to

Mine has always clunked and still does, but no probs its a Triumph trade mark.

ok just got word from the dealer reckons just has to wear in
in hes own words, just the nature of the beast..anyway time will tell
Herb thats cool but out of curiosity..can your mates here u shift at the end of the street?

Hi oz58
hummmmmmmmmmmm that bad ay, most here will tel you the same, Its a Triumph thing and most do clunck quite a bit even more so when new. my clunck was real bad when my bike was new, it was a problem with the cush drive rubbers, the dealer changed them and fitted T Bird rubbers in there place that it tighened things up quite a bit. and it improved things quite a bit. i still got a clunck and still do but not half so bad. been clunking now for three and half years now with no worries. i would suggest while under warranty you have them check out your cush drive as well if the clunck is as bad as you say.
Hope that may help, best of luck.

some of this must be a matter of perception. To me my 04 SM has never clunked or shifted rough. But I have been riding over 30 years and have ridden mostly 50s and 60s Triumphs. Then jump to the 04 SM. Smooth , no vibration, stops in less than a block, and no tweeking to speak of.

My 05 speedmaster cluncks going from second to first but never hear anything up shifting.

BrianT - why - Use the adjuster on the crankcase, and not on the handlebar.

I always thought and used the fine adjustment on the handle bar. its easy to adjust and check slack in the same location. I ground to 3mm thickness a piece of scrap stainless to fit the slot in the clutch lever and it fits the slot in the finger wheel adjuster so you can snug it when finished adjusting. Maybe I never read that section in the T shop manual.
Gary

Its me again. I got out and listened to mine really good before making my commute to work this evening. Clunks pretty good when I drop it into first or into second from neutral after the clutch is first depressed. After that, it goes to either gear very smoothly. However, when I go back to neutral and release the clutch, then depress the clutch again and go into either gear, I get the clunk.

When driving, it seems very smooth and I don't really notice any great clunking while shifting, but more than other bikes I've owned including my old 73 Bonnie from years past. I will ask people who've ridden with me if they notice it. BTW, when I knocked the baffles from my pipes I stopped noticing the clunk as much.

I'm convinced now that the most probable cause is clutch drag when the clutch is first depressed. Ian, do you have any advice on the best way to adjust the clutch? I'm gonna check the owner's manual for mine and see if I can make any improvement this weekend.

Make sure you turn the adjuster at the handle bar in almost all the way before adjusting at the primary. Once you have the adjuster at the primary where you want it then fine tune at the handle bar.

I just looked at the T shop manual for Clutch cable adjustment - Starts with: 1)check fleeplay by measuring at the lever. This is at the slot created between the moving lever piece and the stationary piece attached to the handle bar. The freeplay is checked when you put a slight pressure on the clutch lever until it feels like it stops but, before the lever starts moving again after giving it more and enough pressure to actually depress the clutch. 2-3mm space at this location is what the manual says is good..
2)to adjust freeplay -slacken locknut at upper(lever)adjuster.
3) If there is insufficient adjustment available at the upper adjuster, screw the upper adjuster in all the way then- slacken the lower adjuster till there is a small amount of free play then - carry out final adjustment with the upper adjuster.

I just remembered that first thing in the morning when the bike is cold my clutch is slow to release until the oil is worm. Putting the bike in first is very load at that time.

Hi all ! well just did a small run 475km and the box has setteled in still clunks but not as bad though in city riding seems more noticable. So could be as told have to say the bike ran like a dream plenty of power and get up and go cant wait to fine tune hopfully next week thx again for everyones oppinion and thoughts..