Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Gasket set for Wiseco Kit

Just finished removing the cylinders for the 904cc big bore kit. Everything went really well, no majors!!.. I would like to emphasise a couple of points that Dinqua mentions in his Big Bore Saga that you must do in prep for this job.
You should follow Pat's write up (its spot on) and a Haynes manual or equivalent.
1st..get a good quality T30 torx socket for cam covers.
2nd..get an 8mm hex socket to fit in your ratchet to undoe the head bolts.( they are very tight!!!)
3rd..the magnetic extraction tool that Dinqua mentions is a must...the stronger the better.
One thing as well, I felt the rear cam chain tensioner can only be lifted out when the main cam gear is removed.
Anyway the kit is ordered from Wiseco UK (£385)approx $750..as usual we always pay much more than our US allies.
Getting the bore work done locally and will reassemble in a couple of weeks. Let you know the reults.
Forgot to mention why I posted this in the first place... does anyone know if there is a gasket set that covers all the ones removed in the head strip down including the copper washers and O rings ?.

there are all needed gaskets in kit ,u should get kit from america even with duty would be cheaper than what u said (probably)

all my kit came with is the base and head gaskets, you need to get the washers. o rings, and tensioner gasket.

Frank

you can also re-use all of the copper washers by getting them red hot with torch/bernzomatic them dropping them into a glass of water. You really only need a few gaskets and can reuse many as long as they are not torn or ripped when removing them. be sure to get a new clutch cover gasket and magneto side cover gasket.

What about the clutch lifter bolts? I'm swapping out the clutch springs, while she's torn apart for the big bore. Somebody told me they were one time use bolts.

thats what the manual says, they are cheap. i just ordered some and it only cost me 6 bucks. cheak insurence

Frank

I have some coming, but I was making sure. Thanks.

Frank
Your right I need the tensioner gasket the alternator cover gasket (it tore), also the clutch cover as I am taking it off to fit new clutch springs.
I was going to re-use the copper washers like Dinqua says by re tempering them.
I have an assortment box of O rings so will hopefully use them for the breather tube etc. That should cover it I hope.

Pat
Is it possible to fit the gudgeon pins and circlips to the pistons while they are in the barrels(but hanging out the bottom of the new sleeves)?
The company that is doing the machining work could probably fit the pistons in the new sleeves for me which is something I was not looking forward to doing. Also is it possible to fit the rear cam chain tensioner in prior to the main cam gear? I had trouble removing it with the gear in so left it until I had pulled the gear out then it slid out easily.

Hi Stephen

I don't think you will have a great deal of room to fit the pistons in the barrels and then try to connect them to the rods. On past builds I have always fitted the pistons, rings etc and then put the barrels over the top. I may be wrong on this motor and see if anyone else chips in with their 10 cents worth..

i fitted the pistons into the barrels then installed them on the rods, that was the easiest way for me and made sure i did not mess up a ring

Frank

Ray
Just got the kit today and it looks like there is about 2mm gap between the top of the pin hole and the bottom of the bottom ring (does that make sense?)
I think it might be possible to do...the instructions for ring asssembly is way too much to get my head round.
Thanks for the advice.
Steve

Stephen, I just installed the pistons in the cylinders. Slid the piston/'s down just enough to slide the wrist pin in. When doing this the lower oil ring will slightly be out of the bore, It will be in the chamfer part of the sleeve. After very carefully installing the outer sir clip (the inner clip is installed before installing the pistons in the bore) gently apply a steady straight pressure and the lower oil ring will just slip right in nicely (oil it well) Repeat for the other side. Note take it easy and go slow. Rags covering the space around the piston to prevent the sir clip from falling in the engine (not good) Make sure the sir clip snaps home in the groove (bright light, magnify glass, double check) slide the jugs down and your there. I just did this Monday and worked very well by myself. IMO it is best and safer to go about the piston installation as described by Pat but requires help and a removable ring compressor, The hose clamps will work but I would put some shim stock around the rings to prevent the rings getting scratched. Good luck T

Thanks Tmax..you confirmed what I thought might be possble.
Away skiing for a week and then I will get stuck into it.

Sorry Stephen, just read this, hope all goes well mate