Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Can I change main jets without removing carby

Hi all
I have read and reread the Dinqua site (great info) and I have read most on this site. Most info is with the carbs removed. Can I change the main jets without taking the carby out. I know it would be easier but Im thinking after reading the posts that this may be done while carby is in place.
I dont want to tackle too much at once

Regards
Derek

yup

si

Sure. I have rejetted many a time with the carbs on the bike... tank too.

HOWEVER, Dinqua's way is much easier. After you have been into the carbs a few times, you get the hang of it though and can do it without removing them.

I had them off for my first rejet just to get familiar with the carb then 1 other time because I had a stubborn pilot that wouldn't come loose. Other than that no need to remove the carbs as long as you can get the screws out. Replace the origonal phillips screws with stainless allen head screws and it makes the job much easier.(Allen head=socket head=hex socket)

Yep

Keep in mind the inboard aft screws are difficult to get to and might get stripped. Have a good phillips tip when doing this. Take your time and be paitient. I havent taken mine off. Good luck

I think the first time you do it pull them off. That way you know what they look like and you get rid of those wicked cheap screws that Triumph installs. Those things will strip by themselves let alone a screwdriver at an odd angle.
I had one strip so bad the only way I got it out was with a set of needle nose vise grips.

If you didn't get the idea yet, switch the screws. Brent sells a set of stainless cover and bowl screws. You will have at least 1 screw that wants to strip or just give you trouble. If you know you are replacing them you can grab it with a small locking plier once you strip the head. Go easy and use a good screwdriver.
jeff

Thanks for the replies guys and gals
I have already purchased the allen head stainless screws from Brent a while back in preparation for the mods im about to do. There is about 8 of them 10 mm long and about 8 15mm long. Ill work it out.
I must stop looking at Brents site though, the missus is getting stroppy at me again.
(my new temp gauge looks great. It sat on 60c last night while the outside air temp was about 5)

Derek

do NOT over tighten those screws!! The metal the carbs are made of is super soft.

ya

i say take them off the first time. print out pats directions and take your time. its a good way to start learning the bike

Frank

Sure can. Replace all the float bowl screws with allen head screws. While your at it do the same with the 4 screws on the top of the carb also. Once done you will be able to change your jets and needles in under half an hour.

If you dont have an airbox anymore, it's a 2 minute job to yank 'em. Done it about 15 times.

Ok here is the latest. I removed the float bowl from the right side carb first and changed the main jet to a 130. I then found it easier to remove the left side carb float bowl while the right was still off to give me more room. To change the jet on the left side I had to remove the (8mm spanner) main jet holder and change the jet off the carb. I then put it all back together using the stainless steel hex heads from brent. It took me a few hours but it was my first time and I learned plenty along the way.
Thankyou for all the replys and this site as it gave me the confidence to take the job on and Im glad I did.
The bike runs great with no flat spots that I can tell. Plugs may still be a bit lean though I will keep checking them.
Any other advice is appreciated.
The bike so far is stock slash cuts with 2 baffles removed, AI removed, Top snorkel removed, Uni filter added

you need the stainless allen head screws

Frank

Needle nose vice grips work pretty well too.