Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Performance Mods Tuning Advice

Hey guys,

There are a ton of posts on this subject... I already spent over 1 1/2 hours looking through them so I am trying to cut to the chase.

My Bike Configuration:
2005 TA
long slash pipes (dealer installed)
AI removed

Jets I have in hand from dealer installed pipes: 110, 40

I have not pulled the carbs yet to see what they put in when they rejetted.

Condition I have:
-exhaust pipes are blueing on the main curve.
-Popping on decel.. no biggie
-bike has a problem. but not all the time, I can ride for 7 hours with no issues then I will start to develop a bogging condition, sometimes it just bogs for a second and goes away, other times it starts to decel and I lose power to the point that I can not maintain speed and I need to pull over. doesn't happen at any specific speed, but more common around 55mph.

I pulled the plugs the other day for the first time... they look white to me. Suggests I am running lean. This has been happening since I got the pipes on.

So I talked it over with another more trusty dealer and he told me I should be running 120-125 and 45 jets. He thought this would get me in the ballpark, as each bike is different some tweaking would be necessary.

What do you guys suggest for my configuration for Jetting?

I still need to confirm what is in the bike now, I am rather interested to see what they put in.

Now If I removed the snorkle, what kind of gains would be expected? and again what changes would need to be made? Jetting, etc.

Thanks again guys...

I need to get my bike running a bit better so I can really do some longer rides and have the confidence I won't break down...

Jetting has alot to do with your altitude. Removing the snorkle or snorkles (depending on year) will give you some gains , drilling the box even more and a kit like the Freak even more all requireing different jetting. With your current set up I would think about a 130 main 45 pilot would probably also be good.

The bogging could be a fuel filter issue possibly starving for fuel. Or possibly the dreaded tank vent hose. But not limited to that. You may have a vacume leak also possibly indicated by the whitre plugs. However the white plugs don't mean you have a leak it could also just be from lean jetting.

120 and 42 are stock jets there is no way you need to go smaller as these bikes come lean from the factory.

dogg is pretty close on the jet size. I'd look at the rubber plugs for the AI removal kit (a.k.a. squirrel condoms).

The guy I just purchased my '07 from who works for a Triumph dealer indicated that when the bike was totally stock, there was some popping on decleration. After the off-road shorty silencers were added with the Air Eliminator kit, it stopped all of the popping on deceleration. I asked them about how the dealer rejetted, and he indicated that they had no need to do so, that the bike ran great with stock jets - which I can attest to the fact that it does. I was very impressed when riding it home to see how quickly it accelerated to over 100 mph, and has great pull off the line.

a lean bike will run great just not good for the engine.As long as you aren't rediculously lean.

& it can burn up your motor.

I would assume that the bogging down of your engine could be attributed to a partially pinched vent line under the gas tank. An easy fix and problem to avoid, just have someone help when you install the tank.

just to clear up things a little bit.

The jets I have the 110 and 40 were the stock jets that came with the bike before the dealer put on the pipes.

I will check out the fuel filter but thought is with the jetting.

Thanks again...

Stock jets are 120 and 42 and are generally considered lean overall...

my dealer put 45 in with pipes only. Have you tried Pat's jetting calculator?

Another tip that helped my bike with this same problem, make sure the idle adjustment screws are adjusted properly. Mine are about 3 1/4 turns out from closed. You'll probably need the D tool from Brent, but it's worth keeping in the tool kit. There are plenty of threads here about making these adjustments. I noticed on my bike at certain speeds in windy conditions the bike would bog/lag/etc...After adjusting the idle screws the problem is no longer evident. Hope this helps.

As a matter of a fact I did notice that when I get a big blast of wind or ride with a heavy cross winds that the bike seems to bog more during this time.

D-tool huh? Where do I find this?

As far as vent line goes... when this occurs I tired unscrewing the fuel tank cap, almost had the cap completely off... no difference... I will check the vent line but I don't think that is it...

Thanks again for the suggestions...

I just want to have a reliable ride...

newspeedmaster.com has the D tool

Took the carbs apart yesterday, here are the results:

Mains: 122
Pilot: 42
appears to have 1 shim? maybe 2? I have a small washer and a smaller washer (diameter).

I did find the spring seems to be cut, by this I mean, there is a flat ring on both ends of the spring, one side does the other looks like the coil was cut. This didn't look right to me, so i may check into new springs while I am at the dealer today. Not sure why they would modify the spring. The reason I looked at this was the slide made a crunching moise when I manually operated the slide on each carb before I took them apart.

I also noticed that it appears the delaer must have removed my snorkle as well. When I removed the seat, I can see directly down into the air filter. no rubber boot or anything that looks like it.

Question on 2005's are more than 1 snorkle?

Thanks for the advice guys... still working things out...

Only the top snorkel on 2005s. There are none on the inside of the box.

Cutting the spring changes the working length which 'should' make a lighter return on the spring. I don't know of anyone who has done any hard numbers optimizing the springs, so cutting them is arbitrary at best.

Dynojet does offer a kit that has softer springs but you have to buy the entire kit ($80). I do not know if they will sell just the springs.

Piper tried some different springs awhile ago but I believe they were the wrong diameter and would not work.


I would use Pat's carb calculator and work from there.

I have heard a few people playing with springs in an attempt to do the same as drilling the slide that is increase throttle response. I haven't heard anyone that had any luck doing it but I know that was thier intention.

In my opinion if you cut 1 then cut the other. If you don't I would think 1 slide would be moving differently than the other. If it was my bike I would try and get a new one that isn't cut.

I took my springs out.

Latest Update:

I have re-jetted with 45's and 125's. so the setup is this:
45 pilot, 125 main, 2 shims, cut springs, mixtues screw at 2.5 turns, no snorkle, AI removed, TOR pipes.

Now some notes when I cleaned the carbs. Both carbs showed evidence of backfireing through the carbs, one side worse than the other. I have completed cleaned and air blasted all passages. Now I just need to put it all together this morning. and go for a test ride.

Hopefully I don't need to rejet again, but it will be test and tune from here. I may need to pull the shims.. but we will see how she runs...