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12k valve adjustment
#154607 04/25/2007 10:01 AM
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Just finished my 12k maintenance and thought I would take a few moments to post some misc observations on my experience:

1) My valves did not need to be adjusted. Yeah! In fact they were not even close to being out of spec which makes me wonder how the bike was setup from the factory?
2) The Haynes manual is a necessity if you have never done a valve adjustment. I know some that could probably just get by with the torque and clearance specs but I don’t fall into that category.
3) Do not waste time trying to figure out how to remove the valve cover without removing various vacuum hoses and other bolt on parts above the valve cover! Just remove the stuff and document what connects where and move on.
4) Yes, the nut you place your 10mm hex into to move the cams in place to do the adjustment is behind the right cover by the right foot peg; yes, you have to remove the foot peg to loosen the screw in order to adjust the bracket to remove the last bolt on the cover.
5) Overall, the project was easy and if it were not for me trying to figure out how to remove something without unbolting some other piece first the project would have went much faster. The whole procedure took me around 4 hours and I expect my next valve adjustment will take a whole lot less time than my first go around.

Kevin…


Kevin
Re: 12k valve adjustment
schwartzkm #154608 04/25/2007 10:19 AM
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Big Bore
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Big Bore
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Quote:

4) Yes, the nut you place your 10mm hex into to move the cams in place to do the adjustment is behind the right cover by the right foot peg; yes, you have to remove the foot peg to loosen the screw in order to adjust the bracket to remove the last bolt on the cover.




Much easier (and you don't have to drain the oil) to remove the sparkplugs, put the bike in 4-5th gear, and use the rear wheel to align the cams.


"Never underestimate the power of human stupidity" - Robert Heinlein
Re: 12k valve adjustment
bonnyusa #154609 04/25/2007 10:27 AM
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Worn Saddle
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Quote:

Quote:

4) Yes, the nut you place your 10mm hex into to move the cams in place to do the adjustment is behind the right cover by the right foot peg; yes, you have to remove the foot peg to loosen the screw in order to adjust the bracket to remove the last bolt on the cover.





Much easier (and you don't have to drain the oil) to remove the sparkplugs, put the bike in 4-5th gear, and use the rear wheel to align the cams.





That'll save at least an hour of time too.


A word to the wise is not necessary. It is the stupid ones who need the advice. Pat
Re: 12k valve adjustment
Dinqua #154610 04/26/2007 8:28 AM
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I have always used short pulses on the start button without sparks to move the engine. And rear wheel for small adjustments.

I've a question about valve shims.
I've read somewhere they are the same of a Jap bike, a Yamaha. Do you remeber what Yamaha?

Re: 12k valve adjustment
Mechano #154611 04/26/2007 8:46 AM
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I think any of the V-Max bikes use the same diameter shims. They should be 25mm in diameter. I think the Yamaha shims only come in .020mm increments, vs Triumphs .025mm increments.


Those who would give up essential liberty to purchase a little temporary safety deserve neither liberty nor safety. Benjamin Franklin, US author, diplomat, inventor, physicist, politician, & printer (1706 - 1790)
Re: 12k valve adjustment
Mechano #154612 04/26/2007 2:41 PM
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Loquacious
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Quote:

I have always used short pulses on the start button without sparks to move the engine. And rear wheel for small adjustments.




BAD BOY!!! The first step in the destruction manual says, "disconnect battery". Now, how could you possibly use your starter?

As far as shims, I take mine to the YamaHondaKawaZuki and swap out the shims I need from their Kawasaki, Yamaha bin.
They swap for free.


Ride Safe, Dennis Triumph, it's how I live and what I ride.
Re: 12k valve adjustment
SKILLET #154613 04/26/2007 3:15 PM
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Quote:

Quote:

I have always used short pulses on the start button without sparks to move the engine. And rear wheel for small adjustments.




BAD BOY!!! The first step in the destruction manual says, "disconnect battery". Now, how could you possibly use your starter?

As far as shims, I take mine to the YamaHondaKawaZuki and swap out the shims I need from their Kawasaki, Yamaha bin.
They swap for free.




Only for valve clearance?
I disconnect battery for bigger maintenance expecially on electricals...
I'm a bit more experienced than an hobbist.

Good to know that every jap brand has some 25mm calibrated shims.

Re: 12k valve adjustment
SKILLET #154614 04/26/2007 3:37 PM
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Loquacious
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Quote:

BAD BOY!!! The first step in the destruction manual says, "disconnect battery".




probably says the same for pillon seat removal too...


Mark

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