Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums General Tech botched burn-out

Ordered barnett clutch this morning from bellacorse.
My problems started after unsucessfully and destructively attempting to do a couple burn outs!!
I knew i was hurting the bike when "practicing" and eventually the bike would barely move on its own.
WOW- I'm a dumbass what do i do now????
Personally went to dealer (they sold me the bike and ripped me off on insurance) and honestly explained (obvious mistake?)what I did. I asked if they have the service manual for sale so I can troubleshoot myself and if triumph warranties clutches? Was told dont stock the manual take 5 days to get here.They said "not sure on warranty" bring it in and we'll see what happens. I told them I really just wanted manual and some advice to fix myself. Im on budget, If the bike comes in I'll need warranty work on this or you'll have to push it out. They said theyll call if its going to cost me.
After 2 days and no news I called for status report. I was told "Good news, bike is ready just needed to tighten the cable, your total is $51.62" Upon arrival was informed that oil didnt smell burnt and the test ride (highway included) checked out"
I paid up with no arguement,faked a smile while silentlly cussing myself, commented on the riding weather and 50 easy miles later severe slipping started again. I ordered the service manual online and i'm now learning motorcycle 101 as I go!
Using the manual I pulled the clutch disc's out (no service tool) I placed a stack of washers between each bolt head and the release plate to compress the plates and carefully stuck a screwdriver through a hole in the drive gear into a passage hole in the block to prevent rotation.
Used a 1 3/8 socket for the center nut.
Some of the Friction disc's are mic'n out under the service limit in places some are as thin as 2.42MM
There was a small amount of sludge around the drum area, when draing the oil I noticed no bad odor but the color was extremely dark for having 300 miles on it.
I took the disc's and a oil sample to the stealership to ask for a warranty replacement, later that day they called to tell me Triumph doesnt warranty clutch's


My Questions
Is this typical treatment from a dealership?
Does Triumph warranty cover clutch discs?
Will someone teach me to play this game and win?
Should I also pull the drum and gear to inspect?
Do I need service tool #T3880360 for reassembly?
anyone know the price on that tool?
Any tips or advice on this project or BURNOUTS for a begineer?
Can I use silicone in place of gasket on clutch cover?


to be cont......

I would never burn out with my scoot. My friend who owns a shop and I sit there and laugh at the idiots who do it. You put a huge strain on every componant in your drive line.

I can tell you if I was the dealer I wouldn't warrenty it either.

If you wanted to play and win you should have lied. I hate to say that because I hate to lie...ever. But you should have told them you were riding normally up the road and the clutch started slipping........ I however don't reccomend lieing I reccomend not doing stupid crap in the first place that would require the lie.

I would use the gasket those silicone gaskets if undamaged can be reused.

Never had the clutch apart so I don't know if you need the tool or not. I have found in most cases there are good ways around service tools but in some cases you do need them.

For the warranty on the clutch, the easy answer is no. For advice about the burn out.. I sure would not put my bike through that. For the service/dealer, there are better, but sounds like some are a whole lot worse. When installing the clutch, pay close attention to the orientation of the nuts/bolts and pay close attention to the clutch disks. Two of them MUST be on the outsides or it will be no worky. I had a heck of a time because of not paying enough attention to bolts/nuts and which way some of them went. For the Barnett clutch plates, I never did get them to work. I still have my stock plates, but with the Barnett heavy duty springs.

Clutch disks, brakes, oil, filters, tires and the like are usualy considered "consumables" under a warranty claim. Anything that wears down under normal use isn't considered a warranty item as far as I know. If the OEM forgot a bolt when doing the assy. or didn't tighten something before delivery, that should be covered. Riding the brakes or skidding the tire at every light or doing something not recommended (ie. burnouts or racing) in the users manual will void the warranty. So if you told the dealer you do burnouts and you bring your bike in for a serious warranty problem in the future, they could deny the claim stating that it may have arose when you did a burnout.

btw. My speedo cable failed at the end of my first season on my America. The stealer wouldn't cover it and they said "they knew that there was a problem with them" but didn't keep any in stock. I had to wait 3 weeks to get a new one.

You should get the Barnett springs as well. There is some chance the original ones were heated up enough to loose their heat treating.

Quote:

---

Any tips or advice on this project or BURNOUTS for a begineer?

---

Look up the price of a rear tire before you do it again, it will give you cause to rethink a little.

I've done tons of burnouts on my speedy!

The barnett kit including springs w/shipping is $119.50
OEM friction disks and plates around $215.00

well there's a no brainer

Only burnouts I know are my old friends.

Bill,

I love it. Where did you get that !!!

Here are a ton more:
http://www.thewisemonkey.com/smileys

Soren

Looks like they have your Maltese Cross on there?

Do you know them? I'd like to get permission to upload some of the better smilies and add them to our stock bunch (I am also going to contact the site Bill posted).

I've done two successful burn outs on my bike with no apparent ill effect either time. But to get it done I had to put my rear tire on my extra-smooth garage floor and the front on the rough driveway. I had worn out tires both times. I tried once or twice before that on other rough surfaces and I had too much traction to break the rear tire loose (I was standing, not sitting, on the bike) and just ended up pushing the locked front tire across the ground.

That said, I probably won't do it again. I've broken enough stuff on my bike as it is doing stupid sh!t. Not worth the risk.

Now if I get a Rocket III, that'll be a different story...

I received the Barnett kit yesterday. All the friction disks have the same part #. Waiting for conformation from bellacorse that this is correct.

All my Barnett disks had the same part # as well. Just look at the "pattern" on each disk. 2 will be different from the rest and match only each other, those are the 2 that go on the outside of all the rest. If you don't get those 2 on the outsides, the clutch won't work. It's not that hard to do, I did it!

I hope you got enough advice/answers to fix your problem.
You used the word budget, that never goes with burnout.
Save your money for booze and women.
19k on my OEM clutch, adjusted the cable once, but zero burnouts.
Good luck, keep us posted.

11,000 on my stock clutch and 0 burnouts here too. Plus still have the rear tire that came on mine too.

The clutch is installed and the cover is on. I plan on finishing or re-working it tomm.
I didnt have easy access to a torque wrench. Used a 1/2 drive on the input shaft nut and gave it everything I had. Pressure plate bolts used a dab of loctite and 1/4 drive.
Any advice on this from the experienced gearheads?

It's always been by feel for me but I haven't been in one of the new bikes yet just 50s and 60s Triumphs , BSAs , and Nortons. I did it pretty much as you describe. Adjusted spring tention by feel (set mine a little tight usually).

I would imagine yes it is true. In the old bikes had to have metal discs on the outsides for the pressure plate to push against. I would imagine something similar with these. Better look.

Ahahahahahah

Burn-out with the right bike!
>=80hp light sport bike is the right bike...

This bike has weak and soft springs clutch...

bentridden,

It's your bike, but please try to remember (it's your butt on that bike) and you need to make sure the bike is in top shape before you ask it to do what you want it to do.

From reading the post's from the beginning it appears you are doing this by the seat of your pants then asking your bike to perform like a drag bike.

Please I''m not critizing you but when you joined this forum like it or not but you have a bunch of guy's out there who care about you and do not want to see you get hurt.

Go to Pep Boys and get your self a torque wrench they are cheap there may be a few things you can just crank down, but a clutch is not one of them.

Take care

John

Plus ,to add to poppy, if that clutch does come apart(used to happen on the old bikes if not installed right) It will do much much more costly damage.

The clutch has been fixed and the bike has been on the road for 200 miles now.
FACT- All the barnett friction disk's for this bike have the same part # and the same pattern
FACT- Dont over-torque the retainer bolt's otherwise it will cost you an extra $180
FACT- After install If you complain to Barnett about performance they will send you one thicker disk (T-100 set-up) and your clutch will be real fun.

thanks for your input guys

Wow...did it take this long to get it fixed?
I was reading this thread and then realized how old it was.

bunch of wussies! the Yota 5 step method. (like in GA 2006)
1.Pull front brake
2.crank down on the throttle
3.lift butt off seat
4.dump the clutch w/brake still applied (smoking tires now)
5.hold it...hold it...hold it...let of brake while engine it bumping the rev limiter & hang on cause it probably will get sideways.

would not mind seeing a vid of that

Frank

I'll make a video if you will buy me a new tire.

when i change my tires i'll send you my old one

Frank

tires aren't cheap.