Bonneville America Forums Forums Technical Forums Custom Corner relocating the front turn signals

I want to move the front turn signals to the forks I bought fork clamps (which I have to mod. of course) I just want some info on the wiring. can I tap into where it all goes into the headlight bucket? O r will I have to run wires back from the bars? I see that guys have done this so I'm going with experience here. Thanks GURDY

No you can tap into the plugs in the headlight. very easy. I used a home made testlight to determin what wires to use.(bulb with 2 wires soldered to it.)look at the wires at the handlebars to get the color. I don't remember what they were anymore.

That's cool I'll figure it out just wanted a liittle direction

I relocated mine at the same time I ran the wires thru the bars, so I just pulled the signal wires out of the bundle. They originate from the headlight anyway, so you can just check the wire colors up on the bars, and trace them down to the bucket.

you are talking about fork clamps that need to be modified. Before you do that take a look at what bennybmn did.

I had gotten a ma's signal relocation bracket used from someone. The clamp thing should work too. In fact, up close, the clamps might even look better....

Oh it looked to me on the pic like they were mounted right on the end of the trip tree bolt. With a drilled stud on the head or something like that.

Nope it's a bracket. I'll see if I have a better shot... Originally I just relocated them, then I got another set of rear signals for them so I COULD pass the wires thru a hollow bolt, then I put on the LEDs last year.

This is the bracket from the underside (also showing Brent's gauge). There are tabs that bend up from behind the fork tubes.

Is that line that looks like it's gonna get pinched the oil line too?I do see how there is enough length that the twist from turning the bars shouldn't be a problem. Would still bother me though.

Hard to tell from that pic how far back that line is, but its a ways back, not in danger of getting pinched at all. It's zip tied to the spine under the tank.

I made a simple bracket and put rears on the front.

I cut the sheath holding the bundle of wires and plugged right into lights. Replaced the cut sheath with that auto parts store black slit plastic sheathing with small, black zip ties every few inches.

In the pic it looks in peril but its hard to get a feel for depth in a photo.

I moved my signals using Rivco brackets from Brent's. Then later ran all wiring through the bars. It is relatively easy and I have no experiance with wiring.

With the turn signals down by the headlight, does it inhibit the visibility of them when they are on by the light of the headlight?

Soren

Soren, mine are out far enough and low enough that they are separate. No problems I don't think.

Ian, here is a side view of the same oil line. You can see it dissapear up under the tank.

They look great being lower and further in, but just have always been curious about that. It is one of the reasons I went further up and out.

Soren

Yeah I hear ya. I could go farther out with longer spacers if I ever wanted, its just with the Ma's adaptor placing them basically behind the fork tubes, you have to watch out for the oil cooler lines at full lock.

I don't think moving them down there makes them less visible unless headlight is aimed directly at someone's eyes, in which case they would avert their eyes anyway. When stopped at a light, I move my bars a little left or right anyway so as to not blind people across intersection. I looked at mine after I did it, they seemed plenty visible to me. The other thing I thought about was the ability for traffic to quickly and easily determine If I was signaling left or right, which the designers of the stock location may have considered. With my shorter bars, I just didn't like them there and wanted them in a more classic spot.

I really like where you and Benny have relocated your turn signals. One of the resons I moved mine too, was that they looked almost out of place on the Speedies drag bars (another reason is that I like the appearance that they are not there, until turned on). That is good to know that they are still very visable. If I ever go back to stock turn signals, I will mount them similarly to where you and Benny have them.

BTW... I have a place that I test my lights and signals. There is a T intersection near home. The building at the end of the T (across four lanes and then maybe another 30 feet) has windows facing me. I figure if I can see the reflection of the lights and signals in that window (and I do) they are good to go.

Soren

I was waiting at a light the other day (in the car) and someone across the way had their brights on. Broad daylight. Still hard on the eyes. HELLO?!?!? There's barely anywhere left on Long Island that isn't lit by street lights, so you NEVER need your high beams (in the car)!

I left my turn signals where they were and changed them to mini bullet LEDs and mounted them ontop of the brackets instead of under. I made stainless mounts for Wendys bike and mounted old school chopper bullets between the lights on the light bar and the headlight.

I had the MA's bracket but when I bought my dresser bar I had to remove because the turn signals would hit the dresser bar. I switched to the RIVCO fork mounts and I love them. The MA's bracket also vibrates a bit and that bothered me. I had to dampen with rubber under the triple tree.

I've removed the fork tubes, so I went with the Kurycrackhead clamps( that I have to drill out) & some square signals from British Customs I'll post a photo when she's all done.

Kurycrackhead, love it

Always wondered how those worked. I really like that I can run my wires thru the bolts/bracket.

I bet they stole the name from this guy

From http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Man_from_U.N.C.L.E.

"Illya Kuryakin was past president of the 'Cool Name' club,"
as reported by current club president, Wolf Blitzer.

made mine...(and now it looks like I'm makin dills)
from some 1/4" alum plate stock I had...polished and coated to match the tripletree...

Hey thats P.F.C. I never thought of going the bracket route. I could have made them out of polished stainless. DOH!

Rob, that looks AWESOME! Nice work!

Soren

thanks!

Made my own brackets from aluminum stock and tied the setup in with driving lights as well. I pulled the wiring straight from the headlight bucket, as I think Benny said. Piece of cake to trace if you have the color coded schematics.



Granted I do have the benefit of a machine shop complete with wire EDM at work. But then, don't we all?

sharp scoot airguy.

Quote:

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Granted I do have the benefit of a machine shop complete with wire EDM at work. But then, don't we all?

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Lucky ba......

I have the benefit of a small shop. I can do what I need but not everything.

Thanks for compliment Ian. If ya' saw her now you might not say that. She is FILTHY!!! Haven't done the spring cleaning yet.

I'm with ya bro.Mud, moisture,dust,I've been riding not washing on warm days. I just posted a couple pix of my SM showing the mirrors I used and it's a mess. I hang my head. LOL

LOL

'Tis better to have wind in the face than a bike that is clean and still. Just gotta' get off the lazy keester on those non-riding days and do some cleaning. Completely with ya' on that bro'. Mine's been sitting waiting for my new cush drive to come in and she is still a sad, sad mess. Cush drive is in and picking it up at lunchtime so now I can start riding again and use that as an excuse as to why she is sooooo dirty.

No where near this clean even after the trip down to Georgia!

Well, you have to dis-assemble the rear end to install the cush rubber. NOW would be a very good time to clean everything back there!

Took me 5 rags and a whole boatload of 'cleaning agents' to get all the crap off. I used wd and alcohol. The alcohol really cuts the grease!

(no, not the drinking kind! )

Dang! And here I am thinking the alcohol is to cut the grease from the double bacon cheeseburger I just ate.

(...and yes, I do mean the drinking kind! Certainly makes cleaning the bike much less tedious.)

Ya just gotta distinguish between the isopropyl alcohol and the REAL alcohol while you are working!

Yep, that's the tough part. Err, at least that's what I heard.